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Civilization Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Babylon 5.8 S 
Byzantium S 
Conquistador S 
Evil Empire T 
Fall of Rome, The S 
Manifest Destiny S 
Meerkat Manor T 
Ming Dynasty S 
Mongol Hoarde S 
Sun Never Sets, The S 
This is Sparta S 

Evil Empire 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Killis Howard
Season: Morning shade
Page Views: 1,120
Submitted By: Zappatista on May 30, 2011

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Description 

Splitter at a sport crag. Reminiscent of Yin+Yang but thinner, more smearing, and much smaller pro. A good excuse to visit Civilization Crags and the best rock on the cliff. Not much real crack climbing on this one, more of a V3/4 boulder problem with good gear, but it's an exciting line that will reward those that are adept at placing pro quickly from smears. Worthwhile.


Location 

The arching thin splitter above an offwidth flare sandwiched between Babylon 5.8 and Conquistador on the right side of the main wall. Shares anchor with Conquistador.


Protection 

Cams tiny to #4, exact beta would kinda ruin the fun. Bringing 2 #00 TCUs is a good idea, I used a #9 nut but it's very optional. No long slings or trickery, just a few cams added to your sport kit.



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By Zappatista
May 30, 2011

A little info on the FA-ground-up, no chalk, this was put up as a free/aid pitch (5.10 C2) as a means to bust out the rotten pink+white flake that used to choke the hand crack-sized swoosh. Once the crack was clean it was smooth sailing and there you have it. A little contrast to the usual top-down convenience tactics that seem so accepted in Vegas. Thanks to Mike Kimm for already having the anchor in for me, hope you like the name, tried to keep it in line with the rest of the crag. Hope everyone enjoys this one, a fun little lucky find on my part-if someone else had noticed this one first, it might've turned into a sport climb!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It's a good climb, Mike and I did it on TR a few months back and meant to bolt it- good to hear it goes comfortably on gear. Nice name, btw.

For those not up to the lead, it's a fun TR with a safe, albeit exciting, swing if you come off.

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Nice lead Killis. A note to all you vertically and wingspan challenged, the climb is a solid 11+. Again, as Jon said, the TR is completely safe.

By Zappatista
Aug 12, 2011

Anybody repeated this thing? No love? Such a pretty line, for the first pullout..

By Michael Kimm
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 29, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I did Killis. Just a couple weeks ago, took some friends from out of town over there in the middle of our little warm spell. It's too bad that it can't go on for like thirty more feet. Damn that guy who put the anchor so low.. =D.

Again, nice lead. Glad I didn't bolt it!

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I placed an old 4.5 camalot (new 4?) in the initial wideness, and then only used cams from 0 metolius to 0.5 camalot after that. Did not use a #00 metolius at all.

By Zappatista
Mar 11, 2012

Glad this thing's getting done!

Darren, I almost called it 10d, but all the comments I got from people who'd tried it said same ballpark as Saved By Zero but more of a bouldery feel. I took the middle road, feels like Red Rock V3/4 on gear to me. I liked the small cams right after the wide section and above the swoosh. Everyone seems to really dig the #2 and .75 placements on this one, too. I belayed a friend the other day who placed a full set of C3s as well as up to a #4.

Mike, the bolting situation on this one is mutually satisfactory, believe me. Now when are the washers getting flipped on all these bolts, son? And did you feel like it was still 11+ after I banged out the rotten pink flake+scrubbed the sand out of it? I never TRed it in its original state, figured it had to have gotten easier once you could get your paws into the swoosh.

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I recently did the Offset Corners at 11b, so my thoughts on difficulty are in comparison to that. I haven't done much trad climbing lately so that climb is all I have for reference at the moment. I thought this route was tough, but the hard part is so short I figured I would try to factor that in.
All in all, worth dragging the rack for. Good find, Killis.
I think that this crag is a great all around addition to Red Rock cragging.
By the way, to me there is a difference between 10d (a grade for sport climbs) and 10+ (a grade for trad climbs, and not quite the same thing).

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 1, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Did it again today on TR at the end of the day- its substantially easier than it was when I first did it now that there is a line of jugs where there used to be micro-crimps to lay off of to make that big reach. 5.10+ at the most, I think- even if you're not tall as you can easily walk your feet up into the giant notch that is there now.

Kinda bummed that piece of rock is gone, the challenge of the micro-crimps and that huge reach made it an excellent test-piece for the crag, now I think its just a nice 5.10 that is something to do if you're bored.

By Zappatista
Feb 3, 2013

Yeah, it's really too bad you didn't rap-bolt this splitter, Wilder. That really would've been something to see. And I miss that rotten flake, too-I hear all the good climbs in Vegas have rotten, wedged flakes that you have to "micro-crimp" on. Too bad people clean loose stuff off of climbs, ground-up. That's really an ethical boondoggle. Someone call the BLM narc hotline, IMHO. That's something to do if you're bored. Why bother climbing when you can gossip? PS nice work on the toprope. Strong effort.