Evil Des Seins
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|Type: ||Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Consensus: ||WI4 [details]|
|FA: ||Guy Lacelle, Shaun Parent - 1983|
|Season: ||All winter|
|Submitted By: ||Nick Adams on Feb 17, 2009|
Evil Des Seins in fine condition on a bluebird Can...
This route ascends a narrow 70 degree wall onto a snowy step for a short rest. Then ascend the steep, vertical wall for about 15 meters. Staying on the right side usually offers the greatest relief by way of a left-facing corner. Those inspired to a greater challenge can go middle or left side for robust, Canadian WI4 (every bit of it). Once atop the main headwall, find your line over a series of short vertical sections, angling left for the final 25 meters to the top of the route.
This route offers an excellent opportunity to practice multi-pitch ice climbing (anchor set-up, position, rope management, etc.) by virtue of its shape and obvious belay spot atop the main headwall. Go get 'em!!
Located in the Ice Palace are, 20m left of 10% Real. Descent using the slung Cedar at the top of route.
Bring at least 10 screws as this route will use up almost every meter of your 60 meter rope(s). Also, make sure to check the quality of the slings at the top before rappelling off the route.
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