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Gunung Buros: White Magic Wall
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Evil Chimney 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Noh Mhammad (July 2011)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Glen Charnoski on Dec 15, 2011

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Alex Holke working on Evil Chimney but it was Noh ...

Description 

Interesting and unusual climbing on limestone. Harder than it looks. Climb/stem up a few meters into the obvious chimney, which is open at the bottom. Chimney along horizontally out to the main face while it gets tighter. When you feel stuck move out of the chimney/offwidth into the overhanging wall. Climb the crack and later face to the anchor. It is a good idea to clip stick the first bolt as the first meters are of lower rock quality.


Location 

The route starts in the middle of the wall up dubious rock into the obvious overhanging dark chimney. Stick clip first bolt as leading is dangerous from loose rock. Could get stuck in chimney too.


Protection 

8 new bolts. 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Evil Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Evil Chimney
Evil Chimney
Alex toproping section above crux of Evil Chimney
Alex toproping section above crux of Evil Chimney
Evil Chimney.
Evil Chimney.
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