Everything Under The Sun
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo
Everything Under The Sun is a fantastic 3 pitch route that deserves more traffic than it gets. There is a lot of variety, a lot of exposure, and no crowds. There has been a lot of route development nearby, with 3 newly cleaned routes beginning from the same ledge.
P1: 30m, 5.10b. Follow the crack to its end using dyke holds next to the crack. Traverse right to a second crack then up to a roof. Make an exposed traverse under the roof (crux) using poor underclings and small face holds. Belay from two bolts at a hanging stance at the end of the traverse.
As of May 2012 this pitch was a bit scruffy, particularly the easy crack at the beginning. I gave it a bit of a scrub but you should expect some dirt.
P2: 30m, 5.10b. Runout climbing from the belay leads up to a roof. Traverse right using underclings, similar to the crux traverse on the first pitch, but easier. At the end of the traverse, follow a dyke right and up using a wild mantle. At the top of the dyke big holds lead over a small roof. A short lieback leads to the two bolt belay. This pitch is outstanding.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Climb up and undercling left (crux) from the belay to a flaring hand crack. From the top of the crack climb a featured slab past bolts to the two bolt belay at the top of the wall.
Access is either by rappel from the top (3x30m) or a scramble from the bottom.
You have options to reach the top. Take the 3rd Peak trail to just below the 3rd summit, where the hiking trail heads up on slabs. From here a rough trail leads west through a small forest. If you miss this, you can just traverse the slabs above the forest. You are trying to reach the top of the south east facing wall that overlooks the Oleson Creek valley, on the opposite side of the Chief from the highway. Look for two rappel bolts at the edge of the cliff.
Alternatively, climb Sunblessed to the top and traverse climbers right along the top of the wall for about 60m to reach the rappel bolts.
To reach the bottom, locate the trail for Above and Beyond and scramble up from there. This trail is on the Slhanay (Squaw) trail and can be reach either via the Chief backside trail or from Slhanay itself. I haven't done this approach.
Alternatively, I believe there is a rough bushwack trail from the base of Sunblessed to reach the base of Everything Under the Sun.
A standard rack to 3" including lots of small cams. I had two 0 Metolius Master cams (purple) and one 00 (gray) and I was happy for it. Bring lots of slings as it can be hard to manage rope drag. Double ropes would be great for this route.