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Who Fooled Who? 

Everybody's Welfare 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on May 22, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: route topo

Description 

Start at the large horizontal, and crank up to the first bolt. Follow the dihedral passing 2 more bolts. The first crux is going from the stemmy dihedral to the face, especially so during high humidity.
After the fourth bolt, move to the arete from the overhang and continue up past another roof to the anchors.
Originally rated 11.c, the route has since been downgraded to 11.a. A long reach is helpful for the dihedral, which still hoses me from time to time, while most find the first overhang to be the crux.


Location 

Fourth line of bolts from the left.


Protection 

Bolts

These are possibly an inferior steel bolt type. They've caught falls, but are suspect.



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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Jul 11, 2013

My friend and I worked this route a few days ago, and it's fantastic... except for one major caveat. The crux isn't a move; it's a clip. The hold you have to clip off of at the crux (6th bolt) is terrible, with terrible feet, and puts you in a very awkward position. In fact, if you were to skip the bolt, or if it were lower and more to the right, you wouldn't even have to use that hold, and the fall would still be clean.

Instead of going straight up the face, just move out right to the arete. Another example of thoughtless bolt placement at Long Dong.

By BrianWS
Oct 28, 2013

There is really solid thinner gear in the corner and the arete also takes bomber, though widely spaced, cams.

Fun climb. I remember getting destroyed on the initial corner crux after smearing over a sea louse by mistake.