Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sweet Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atomic FireBall S 
Butterfinger S 
Cracker Jack T,S 
Everlasting Gobstopper S 
Good and Plenty S 
Hot Tamale S 
Jaw Breaker S 
Kit Kat S 
Lemonhead S 
Mounds S 
Now and Later S 
Pay Day S 
Peanut Brittle S 
Pop Rocks S 
Rick Krispie Treat S 
Taste the Rainbow S 
Thingamajig S 
Whatchamacallit S 
Zagnut S 

Everlasting Gobstopper 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D Allan
New Route: Yes
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 1,505
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Aug 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Good idea of what you'll be looking up at as you'r...

Description 

First route right of Cracker Jack (mixed crack). Route opens with challenging 10b/c moves, then jug haul section to half way point up to a roomy ledge. From the ledge, face climbing brings you to the very fun finishing roof move. Not the most sustained route on the wall but very fun and well-protected.

Location 

Fifth route from left or first one right of obvious 30' crack system.

Protection 

Bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Everlasting Gobstopper Slideshow Add Photo
"....You can suck'em and suck'em and suck'em but they never get any smaller."
"....You can suck'em and suck'em and suck'em ...
Fun roof move.
Fun roof move.
Hanging out after the third clip. Not sure if more holds broke off or what, but it's definitely thinner than I remember between the 2nd and 3rd bolts -- fun puzzle. :)
Hanging out after the third clip. Not sure if more...

Comments on Everlasting Gobstopper Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 21, 2013
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 23, 2009

Someone added a bolt so a CAM is no longer needed.
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I vote 5.11a on this route, based on the impossible-for-anyone-under-6' move before the roof. Tons of fun, otherwise.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 10, 2009

isn't it forbidden to put up a stronghold route rated 11a or harder unless you've been climbing there for more than 10 years? :)
By Boodge Nomchompski
Nov 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Plus, it's not even close to 11a by Cochise or Mt Lemmon standards...regardless of height/reach.
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Geir: It wasn't put up as an 11a. Someone knocked off the block that enabled mortals to reach that high hold.

Boodge: Did *you* knock that block off. ;)
By Boodge Nomchompski
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nope...that sucks though. I can see how it must be harder now. You could always dyno!
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

By "you", you mean "one", right? Because I'm quite certain that someone other than me could dyno to that less-than-juggy hold.

I'd actually like to try this route again, if anyone's up for it.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 19, 2009

"There are no reach problems, only power problems." That only applies if you're Lynn Hill though :-)
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 10, 2009

Well played Christian! =) Brigette - you crack me up! I thought i told you I pulled the block. I didn't like the way it still moved after a week of gluing/drying so i yanked it. It was certain death waiting to happen. May not have happened for years but i sleep better with it gone. I pulled another suspect [jug] hold at the bottom as well. I can't wait to see you going for round 2 on it this weekend! =)
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Dec 10, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I may have to traverse out to California to get around that spot, but I'm gonna go for it!

Wait, did you pull the jug at the bottom before or after I climbed it last time?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 10, 2009

"Brigette" wrote:
I may have to traverse out to California to get around that spot


LOL
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 10, 2009

I pulled it the same day i pulled the big block so it was gone when you did it. It was right next to another fairly substantial hold so it won't be missed much. Maybe I should just keep pulling off holds till i get it up to a 12... what do y'all think? ;)
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Dec 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Hah! I got through the crux - no jugging, and no traversing (guess Disneyland will have to wait). Time to downgrade it. 5.10a?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 14, 2009

Hmmm, what d'you put in those pancakes again? :-)
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 3, 2010

I'd vote 10+ heavily leaning towards 10D judging by the difficulty partners had with it as well as what it felt like to me. But whatever, it's a fun climb with good movement.
By joedeltron
Mar 15, 2010

Aesthetically probably the best route on sweet rock. I'd vote 10d or 11a, I got the beta from the route setter (thanks Daryl!) Fun moves and a cool dyno for a short guy like me at the end. Very well bolted so it's a great lead.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 20, 2010

Thanks Joe and Zeke! Belated congrats on your send Brigette! I'm always amazed at the deviation in ratings i get on this route. Every time we're out there we meet new people and I've heard folks rate this line from as low as 5.9 all the way up to low 11. It's very height - dependent with a crimpy 2nd half so depending on your build and strengths, the variance makes sense.
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I thought this was the best route at Sweet Rock.

Fun, techy start into a rest, then a sustained and pumpy finish. Full value for a sport climb, definitely felt challenging for 5.10. 10d sounds about right to me.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Dec 21, 2012

10D? Hummm. Yeh, I guess I've found 10Ds at laurel knob like this one.

I agree, best route at the cliff.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 21, 2013

Climbed this again last weekend and a block came off through the lower stuff below the ledge. I didn't really see that it affected the overall grade that much but that specific section is maybe a letter grade stiffer.