Everest Ridge Mod. Snow
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| Type: | Snow, Alpine, 6300 feet |
| FA: | Dean Brimhall & LeGrand Hardy (February 19, 1916) |
| Season: | Best in later winter to early spring (mid-January to early-March) |
| Submitted By: | John Ross on Jan 5, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Everest Ridge, Mt. Timpanogos
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Description Everest Ridge is a Utah Valley area classic alpine climb. This route is famous for the 1992 "Utahns on Everest" expedition who used the route to train for their climb of Mount Everest (news article). This route can be climbed snow-free during dry summer months, however, this is a description for an alpine-like climb of the route during winter/early spring when snow is present. Everest Ridge can be climbed car-to-car in one long push. The climb is most often done with an overnight stay in Big Baldy Pass as the climb is fairly steep and long. An overnight camp in the pass is a worthwhile outing in itself offering amazing views of Utah Valley and the Wasatch Range. The climb starts as a hike on the well maintained Dry Canyon trail to the top of Big Baldy Pass. The final approach into Baldy Pass is often covered with deep soft snow requiring snowshoes. Terraces have been carved into the slopes south of the pass for erosion control and provide flat, sheltered camp locations. From the pass climb through a stand of quaking aspen to gain the bottom of Everest Ridge. Here the slope steepens enough to make snow shoes impractical (stash snowshoes as you leave the aspens and get out crampons/ice axe). In ideal conditions the snow on the ridge is sunbaked and wind-swept making for good styrofoam cramponing snow. Ascending Everest Ridge starts by following a steep slope between two short cliff bands. This beginning slope can and does avalanche. Climb next to (or over) one of the cliff bands to avoid unnecessary exposure and gain the ridge proper. Some route-finding is necessary on the ridge as snow conditions change. Be prepared to cross some exposed rock. A rock band near the top of the ridge may be climbed under some conditions, but is usually bypassed by traversing right on steep exposed slopes. Avalanche Caution: Climbing the ridge does provide some protection from avalanche exposure, but there are exposed slopes where great care should be taken. Acceptable alpine conditions “can” be found from mid-January into early March. Avoid Everest Ridge during high avalanche conditions. Route Info: Dry Canyon: 5,450 ft (1,661 m), GPS: N40.34226 W111.67673 Baldy Saddle: 8,300 ft (2,530 m), GPS: N40.37159 W111.65527 Everest Ridge Summit: 11,650 ft (3,551 m), GPS: N40.38632 W111.64431 Timpanogos Summit: 11,750 ft (3,581 m), GPS: N40.39118 W111.64600 Dry Canyon to Baldy Pass: 2.70 miles, 2,850' elevation gain Baldy Pass to top of Everest Ridge: 1.28 miles, 3,350' elevation gain ER Summit to Timp Summit: 0.37 miles, 100' elevation gain (also some elevation loss) One-way Distance: 4.35 miles (7 km) Total Elevation gain: 6,300 ft (1,920 m) More photos and information can be found on SummitPost.org
Location The climb begins as a hike up Dry Canyon. Get to Dry Canyon trail head by driving east to the top of Orem's 2000 North or Lindon's 200 South (one and the same) and turn left on Dry Canyon Drive (just before the road bends south). This street becomes a narrow paved road and ends at a paved parking lot at the mouth of Dry Canyon. Park here. Follow the trail between the cliffs.
Protection Use crampons and an ice axe for a winter ascent.
Passing avalanche debris at the base of Everest Ri...
| Ascending Everest Ridge.
| View of Utah Valley from Everest Ridge.
| Night time view of Utah Valley from Everest Ridge.
| View of Orem/Provo under a full moon from the summ...
| Looking across the face of Timp under a full moon ...
| Dawn patrol in the Wasatch as seen from Everest Ri...
| Looking south from the summit.
| Watch out for them avalanches! This one was on a n...
| Looking at the traverse from the top of Everest Ri...
| Low on Everest Ridge
| Rock step on Everest Ridge
| Up the rock step on Everest Ridge
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| Comments on Everest Ridge |
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By tenesmus Jan 5, 2009
| This looks cool and very long. What about descent options considering avy dangers? Looks like something you could have a lot more fun descending on skis... |
By Craig Martin Jan 6, 2009
| AKA The Big Baldy Ridge. See Wasatch Tours Vol 3. |
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 6, 2009
| Craig, yeah there's probably nothing "official" about the name Everest Ridge or Big Baldy Ridge. Everest Ridge is just what locals have called it for many years. Thanks for your comment though. Tenesmus, the steep faces of Timp are sometimes skied/boarded but not by me. =) The conditions have to be just right. I think the ridge offers the best protection from avalanches. I was on Everest Ridge once when the cloud ceiling dropped and we were hit by a powerful snow storm. With poor visibility, we headed down the ridge to find we were NOT on the ridge we had climbed up. My old yellow GPS (no maps) indicated we were too far north. The white-out was disorienting and the GPS directions didn't make sense. With the storm intensifying and cliff bands below us, we elected not to retrace our steps back up, but to traverse south across the face to try to find Everest Ridge again. The more fresh snow that fell the greater the avalanche danger on the exposed slopes, but the near white-out made it easier to cross the steep slopes without being able to see the huge exposure below. After quickly crossing three ridges and still not reaching Everest Ridge itself we found a way to descend around the cliff bands and glissade back down to better visibility. One more ridge and we would have finally gotten back onto Everest Ridge. Amazing. High on the ridge we somehow had gone down one of off-shoot ridges to the north (see topo photo). Glad we trusted the GPS as we followed it right to camp. Funny thing was, back in the valley the sun was out and it was almost spring-like. |
By Tristan Higbee From: Mexico Jan 8, 2009
| The Utahns on Everest team didn't do the FA of this climb. My dad did this climb in the late 60s or early 70s with some BYU alpine club, so it was definitely climbed even before then. |
By Craig Martin Jan 14, 2009
| FA Brimhall, Hardy 1916. According to Wasatch Tours Vol.3 it was the first winter ascent of the mountain. |
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 15, 2009
| Reading that account again, it doesn't say for certain, but it is likely that their "first winter ascent" of Timp was via this ridge. From LeGrand Hardy's 1954 obituary: "Always interested in the out-of-doors and any challenge that it presented, he was a member of the small party that was the first to climb Mt. Moran of the Teton range in Wyoming." (Perhaps he was a member of this party in 1941.) |
By Alec Jan 18, 2009 rating: Mod. Snow
| Good to see this route in here -- the best way to summit Timp IMO. The elevation changes are a bit exaggerated here, though: it's more like 6400 vertical ft from Dry Canyon.. SummitPost has an excellent route description as well |
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 19, 2009
| The elevation for Dry Canyon was off but is fixed now. Thanks for noticing. The SummitPost link is more clear in the description now as well. Look for perfect conditions on this route during the next several weeks. |
By petercoe From: utah Mar 3, 2010
| i am thinking of climbing the ridge this weekend, any suggestion on what time to start up the ridge so i can see the sun rise? also any tips? forwarning? |
By Tristan Higbee From: Mexico Apr 21, 2010
| I did this climb yesterday and it was epic. Going up wasn't too bad, but the snow was really soft on the way down, meaning that I postholed with pretty much every step. Progress down the mountain was excruciating. Oh, and I had diarrhea... Like I said, epic. It took me about 9.5 hours round trip. I started at 3:30 am but should have started earlier to get the best snow conditions. I didn't have snowshoes and don't think they would have helped. I put away my trekking poles and got out my ice axe and crampons at Baldy Saddle. The traverse right under the step was reasonable and enjoyable. It was easy to stay off the cornices on top and on solid rock. One note about the trailhead: There are a few trails that leave from the Dry Canyon parking lot. The one you want, the one that actually goes up the canyon to Baldy Saddle, is on the FAR RIGHT of the parking lot. I made the mistake of going up one of the trails that starts at the left and wasted half an hour. I've got an extended TR and lots of pics on my blog here. |
By Ben Folsom Apr 22, 2010
| Glad to hear you had diarrhea, I wish everybody would post when they had the runs... |
By Klimbien From: Littleton, CO - spent yrs in S Sep 15, 2010
| super fun - did it last November of 2009 |
By Bob B. Feb 1, 2011
| Anyone done Everest Ridge earlier in the winter (late Jan, early Feb)? Is it doable? I'm considering a run next week. Thursday afternoon to Baldy Pass (camp). Friday morning up Everest Ridge. Ski down. Anyone have an estimate of time from Baldy to the hut? |
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 6, 2011
| This photo is from a climb at the end of January '06. Lots of post-holing. Two weeks later were much better conditions that year. Every season is different though. Suggest watching the weather the weeks before going for amount of fresh snow fall, temperatures, and amount of sun-baking which will give some indication of the amount of snow consolidation. Sometimes you just have to go up and get on it! I've heard some other groups heading up the ridge the next two weekends. Maybe they will post the conditions that they find. Really though, look for idea conditions over the next few weeks. Time from saddle to summit will certainly depend on conditions and fitness. |
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