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BETA PHOTO: Pocket + hook + duct tape = pro
This route might feel a little weird or contrived because of its location, but it features some interesting climbing.
This route was given a "Very Serious" rating in the Rossiter guidebook however I felt this was more like a "Serious". If one were to take a poorly timed or awkward fall on the slab there is potential for injury, but it is not what I would classify as a death route.
P1 - Begin by climbing some juggy rock and a right leaning crack to gain a horizontal gash below a slab. Friction straight up the slab past a chopped 1/4" bolt stud and a small pocket that you can place a hook in for protection. Make a couple more moves, reach a good hold, and continue up the shoulder on easier ground to belay. 60'
P2 - Traverse down and right from the belay and work tenuous smears and underclings across the flake to gain a narrowing crack just left of the corner. Climb the crack more or less directly to the top. 80'
This is the leftmost route on The Dome, located just left of the west descent gully. There is a pine tree near the base.
Cams from blue Alien to #3 Camalot. A Leeper Logan Hook (wide) or equivalant. Duct Tape.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The route was a bit more contrived than I was expecting, especially for one put up in 1970...approximately 4 years before Prelude to King Kong.