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An unreadable plaque lies at the base of this climb because someone decided to scratch out the name and over-write it with the words "Bad Bolt."
THe bottom bolt of the anchor is indeed bad (refer to note on Protection) and should probably be replaced with a 1/2" in the same hole. The problem with this scribble job is that all you can read is gibbersh, so you don't know he name of the route or that there is a bad bolt until you come down and having already learned that, can decipher the plaque.
At the far left side of the lighter wall just left of Tofu Crack there are 3 climbs, Mouse Meat, a 140' tall 5.10+ crack route, then an unnamed 5.10 left-facing Flake, then this route, which ascends a crack system just at the left edge of the wall. Start up in one crack and just when it runs out, move left 5' into a different crack. The transition is the crux and can be protected well on a few cams on either side.
This is a reasonable warm-up route for the wall but is not typical of indian creek- the rock is a little softer and lighter and there are more holds and less pure crack climbing.
This climb is the last climb left of Tofu Crack in the lighter-colored wall, just before turning left around the corner past a tree to the base of the huge, left-facing "Two Timer" dihedral.
A set of cams to hand-sized with a few large nuts or extra large finger sizes. (EDIT): The once-loose lower bolt, (owing to its poor placement) on this anchor has reportedly been repaired and beefed up.
Chris Parks getting into the switching-cracks crux...
Rob Dillon on the 2nd ascent of Evening Ecstasy, j...
Kristin about to make the switch.
Looking down the route from the sharp end
|Comments on Evening Ecstacy
Mar 23, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
i had thought that the route might be called 'evening ecstacy" (?). tony's description is pretty accurate.
Apr 2, 2007
I found this route to be a little delicate and not your standard IC crack climb. This was an entertaining route that I suffered on due to the small jams. I made it to the anchors on this with my mantra-" I am not going to hang on a 5.9" Fun route!
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Apr 9, 2007
'Evening Ecstasy' was first climbed by Clint Dillard in 2004 or so. I believe Clint, or his partner, has on at least one occasion called up a first ascentionist to harangue him about poor bolt placement, so perhaps you may feel more justified in addressing your comments directly. He's sorta got it coming, I guess.
Sounds like the route has cleaned up OK.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008
Nice warmup. The anchor has been beefed up and is good to go.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 29, 2009
one of the easier lines in the creek. good warmup for the wall.
|By Phill T|
May 10, 2010
brand new closed coldshut about a foot above the original anchor. fun route, well worth your time.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 28, 2011
Anchor has been completely replaced and is bomber. Thanks!