Even Steven  5.10+

738 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Submitted By:  blakeherrington on Jul 22, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Steep climbing off the ground quickly leads to a blocky horn and small slab (bolted anchor). From the left-facing-corner above the slab, follow cracks and a surprising number of face holds, passing one or two small overhangs. Step leftward ~25 feet before the top of the wall into a new crack which leads to the chains. This route requires a bit of every type of technique. The beautiful ocean view from the top is well-deserved. Although given only 2/5 stars in the Select Guide, this route is a classic. McClane gets it right in his book... "a tour-de-force of 5.10 climbing".

Location 

At the far left end of the Pet Wall, a few small roofs and obvious clean cracks mark this route. It is also immediately left of the bolted "No Name Road".

Protection 

Double set of cams, and a set of nuts. RPs or offset cams can be used.

With a 60m rope, you may need to use the slab anchor ~10m off the ground, in order to get back down. Definitely have your belayer tie into the rope if you're on a 60m.