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 ADVANCED
Petrifying Wall
Routes Sorted
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A Cougar One Bite Brownie S 
Beers Are Not Enough T 
Black Water S 
Burning Down the Couch S 
D.O.A. T 
Elastic Man S 
Even Steven T 
Flight of the Challenger T 
Flingus Cling, The S 
Food Frenzy S 
Heavy Petting Action S 
Instinct S 
No Name Road S 
Pleasant Pheasant S 
Plumbline S 
Underwire S 
Youth Gone Wild S 
Unsorted Routes:

Even Steven 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jul 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Steep climbing off the ground quickly leads to a blocky horn and small slab (bolted anchor). From the left-facing-corner above the slab, follow cracks and a surprising number of face holds, passing one or two small overhangs. Step leftward ~25 feet before the top of the wall into a new crack which leads to the chains. This route requires a bit of every type of technique. The beautiful ocean view from the top is well-deserved. Although given only 2/5 stars in the Select Guide, this route is a classic. McClane gets it right in his book... "a tour-de-force of 5.10 climbing".

Location 

At the far left end of the Pet Wall, a few small roofs and obvious clean cracks mark this route. It is also immediately left of the bolted "No Name Road".

Protection 

Double set of cams, and a set of nuts. RPs or offset cams can be used.

With a 60m rope, you may need to use the slab anchor ~10m off the ground, in order to get back down. Definitely have your belayer tie into the rope if you're on a 60m.


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