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Nicola Masciandaro leading Even Steven (11b).
The set of cracks on the face to the right of Toxic Shock heading straight up from the ledge. Fun moves, fairly consistent difficulty, and distinct reachy cruxes (at least for short people like myself) make this a great climb. Approach the area as for Toxic Shock and climb either of the starts for Toxic Shock to reach the ledge.
Standard trad rack, but with emphasis on smaller gear. You probably want a #2 and #3 camalot for the standard approach (as for toxic shock). For the actual climb, I use 2 green aliens, 1 blue TCU, 1 yellow alien, 1 grey alien, and 1 purple camalot. You want to have stuff in this range, maybe a couple extra of some sizes just in case.
By Jon Nelson
Aug 4, 2013
Thanks Douglas for the video.
And nice solid lead!