Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wild Horse Wall
Select Route:
Bronc, The T 
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues T 
Mustang Sally T 
Wailing Banshee T 

Even Cowgirls Get the Blues 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1986 Jim Waugh, Frank Valendo
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Excellent climb! Exciting to lead; I thought it was a bit runout on the mid and upper part of the route, and ALL of 5.9 (10A?). As with Wailing Banshee, a stick clip would be nice for the first bolt, though at least the landing is good. Start just left of the Bronc, and make a difficult, heady move to clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up for some thrilling and great climbing. About 80 feet up, step slightly right and climb an obvious 20 foot 5.7/8 crack to the top. Look out for loose rock at the top of the crack. Step left to a large ledgy area and find two old bolts for the belay.

Location 

Start just left of the Bronc. First bolt is about 12 feet up. Single rope rappel down Wailing Banshee.

Protection 

4 or 5 good bolts and a couple pieces for the crack (stoppers to #2 BD cam).


Comments on Even Cowgirls Get the Blues Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -