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 ADVANCED
Rough Canyon
Select Route:
Cousin It T,S 
Dead President T 
Eve of War T 
Guantastic T 
Junk Ride, The T 
Maximum Impaction T 
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 
Solar Impact T 
Tabeguache Tower T 
Uncle Fester T,S 
Waxing Gibbous T 

Eve of War 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Skyeler Congdon, Julian Poush
New Route: Yes
Season: Morning Shade
Page Views: 1,052
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Aug 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Eve of War ascends the crack system furthest left....

Description 

This has one pitch of sustained 5.8 moves with good hands. It is solid at the grade and rare for good moderates on this rock. From the comfy belay ledge, Julian pushed a second pitch out 20 feet right on a foot travere then climbed a good 5.10 corner another 30 feet until the climbing became thin and desperate. Any attempt at finishing this line would prove demanding. Trundling is the crux.

Location 

Leftmost crack system on the west facing Rough Wall. Ascend curving crack-corner to obvious belay ledge which terraces off to the left (to Waxing Gibbous).

Protection 

Mostly #2s and #3s. Small gear for the anchor.


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By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Aug 7, 2007

Combining this with the Gibbous and the President makes for a fun, practical way to get back to the car.