Climb out the stellar roof directly above The Shield. Steep climbing on mostly big clean holds leads to a few wild and innovative moves in a spectacular position. A great combination skills route for trad/sport teams - negotiate the excellent but heady .11b R ballet climbing on The Shield to gain the EV belay and then put on your sport face to secure the chains.
From the belay a top The Shield, move left five feet and climb up two short angling cracks that converge. Place a good, blue #1 Metolius cam in the left crack high where it nearly converges with the right crack. Layback above the cam and rock onto the slab above finding a couple of good finger rails up high and right and clip a bolt. You can not see the bolt from the belay. Move right five feet and place a gold #2 Camalot which will take the edge off clipping the second bolt next to the "tooth". You can stand up to the right of the tooth and get a great no hands shake - enjoy it as it's your last until the chains. Move left past the tooth and latch a suit case block for clip three. Surf into the bottom left side of the "shark fin" for clip four. Get your psyche on for the crux. Hit clip five and cope with final RP moves. See the Protection section below for helpful specifics on what draw lengths to use.
Many heart felt thanks to Steven Lucarelli, Rob Woolf, Steve Annecone, Rob Kepley, Matt McKey, Travis David, and Greg Miller for their support.
Two failed ground-up attempts in 2008 and subsequent top down inspections made it clear it required bolts. This was bolted in the Fall of 2009.
On Lower Peanuts Evangelium Vitae is the roof above The Shield. Do The Shield and belay on a 8x2 foot ledge.
Descent If you're at the belay atop The Shield, you have three options: leave gear and rappel, climb to the top of Evangelium Vitae, and either walk off or lower/rappel.
Assuming you made it to the top of EV with a 60m rope, you can rappel to the anchor atop Young, Blond, and Easy then pull the rope and rappel one more time to the ground. With a 70m rope, you can rappel to a ledge about 40' above the ground and do a 5.6 downclimb to climber's left. An 80m rope makes this even easier. Of course, from the top of EV, you can also scramble back to the base.
If you're not able to reach the anchor atop EV, three options exist: Leave bail gear and rappel with a 60m rope to the ground. Second, leave draws on bolts one and two and rappel with rope through draw two to the ledge 40' above the ground with 60m rope down climbing 5.6 terrain to climber's left. Lastly, you can traverse from the belay 80' directly right through 5.7 terrain to reach the anchor on Peanuts and rappel with 60m rope.
Pre-drawing/TR It's a circus to TR this as it's too steep to get back on if you fall anywhere in the first three bolts. It is possible to pre-draw the bolts by hiking up the back side of Lower Peanuts climbing up the slab 100' finding a large, long detached block along the ridge. The anchor is just over the edge.
For The Shield a SR with a set of DMM Brass nuts (i.e., two HB Brass Offset 3) and few technical finger-sized cams. Save two gold #2 Camalots for the belay.
Evangelium Vitae has five lead bolts and a two bolt anchor equipped with chains and carabiners. Bring a blue #1 Metolius Master Cam and a gold #2 Camalot. The rope will run optimally and fear be reduced to a minimum with the following placements:
1. Metolius Master Cam - blue #1 with quickdraw (gate left). 2. Bolt - shoulder runner and quickdraw (gate right) keeps rope running straight and clean when you're climbing higher. 3. BD Camalot - gold #2 with shoulder runner (gate right) takes the edge off the next clip. 4. Bolt - shoulder runner (gate right) makes your next burn a lot easier as you won't need the BD Camalot gold #2. 5. Bolt - shoulder runner (gate left) keeps the rope running straight. 6. Bolt - quickdraw (gate left). 7. Bolt - two quickdraws (gate right) keeps the rope running clean when you take the airy wobbler at the finish.
A partial left kneebar/scum makes clipping the third bolt easier and affords a few good shakes. A kneepad makes it so you can almost get both hands off.
The crux toss between bolts four and five can be a bit perplexing until the right sport beta is applied. It is not height-dependent, rather beta intensive. 5'4" climbers send when wired. Above the "shark fin" at bolt four is a good mini-ledge you throw to. With left hand on the mini-ledge and right hand on a decent in cut crimper, match left foot to left hand heel hooking. Be careful the heel hook is along the edge, so you don't scrape up your Achilles. Fire left hand to a small sidepull crimp overhead. Spy the slightly left-leaning dihedral overhead. Move left foot to a heel toe cam on the mini-ledge, and pull with arms pushing hard with left leg. Make the crux toss with left hand for the bottom of dihedral. Clip bolt five, suss out the red point crux which moves right onto the lip/arÍte feature and take the fun wobbler if you botch it.
Note, the "shark fin", some rock to its right and another lower feature in the roof sound hollow but are going nowhere. I crowbarred these extensively, and they are all bombproof.
Nice job, Joe, way to persist, stay focused, and get it done! You must have found some new beta if you think this is only 12b though! Or maybe you're doing some serious sandbagging!? By the way, for parties that don't want to do the Shield, it's easy enough to climb Blows Against the Empire or Peanuts and traverse left to the belay ledge.
Thanks, Steve! Really appreciated your help on this one. Good point on alternative approach pitches. I added those to the description. Hopefully, it'll see some action soon and the grade can be confirmed. I am open to raising it if warranted, but I think with the correct beta it's .12b.