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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
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Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
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Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Evangeline 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c A1

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1 [details]
FA: [?Steve Wunsch per High Over Boulder, P. Ament & M. VanLoon 1967 TR led P Ament & R Briggs, 1967]
Fixed Hardware: 10 Lead Bolts, 6 Lead Pins, 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,969
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Mar 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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The 'slightly dicey' opening moves of pitch one, E...

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  • Description 

    This is one of the more popular and better protected roof routes.

    This climb starts to the [right] of Temporary Like Achilles; uphill 20 yards from Guenese. It can be identified by a heavily chalked shelf midway up and a seemingly juggy roof at the beginning. This is a great pitch, .10b over the roof, and pumpy reachy 5.11 climbing up higher on good holds. Once on top of the shelf, the crux breaks left on some sloping holds then angles back right to easier climbing that moves up and left to a two bolt belay. The upper roof can be aided to gain access to two more apparently classic 5.10 pitches, I have not done these however.

    The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.

    The upper pitches have some antique gear (pins & bashies) that you should treat with suspect.

    Protection 

    There are a few bolts and less than ideal pins protecting this climb. The start is a tad on the hairy side.


    Photos of Evangeline Slideshow Add Photo
    Way back, maybe the second or third "Eldo Days", Rick Lietner and I worked hard to replace the bogus old bolts.  1/2 inch rawls all the way now, except the anchor.   <br /> <br />There is danger of rockfall here. Fall, 2003, a bunch of us ended up running for the now-questionable shelter of the wall when someone else knocked off some big flakes from Ruper.  Our gear was dusted by debris.  It would have really bad for anyone on the ramp.  <br /> <br />The many Californians I've met who thought Eldo was a pile are vindicated again. But if your a good climber looking for something steep yet easy on the fingertips(like the Owens River Gorge) and fairly well protected, then don't miss this pitch.
    BETA PHOTO: Way back, maybe the second or third "Eldo Day...
    The crux. There are several good finger holds here, but for some reason it's much harder than it looks.
    The crux. There are several good finger holds here...
    Paul romping on the first pitch of Evangeline in the rain.  He pulls 11b off the couch, why train?
    Paul romping on the first pitch of Evangeline in t...
    Starting the crux sequence. You can climb to the left, to the right, up the middle, or some combination of those.
    Starting the crux sequence. You can climb to the l...
    Moving left after the initial roof.
    Moving left after the initial roof.
    Cheyne on the opening moves.
    Cheyne on the opening moves.

    Comments on Evangeline Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Patrick Vernon
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jan 1, 2001

    Attempted to do these upper pitches today. I found the climbing quite nebulous, perhaps I didn't stare at the guidebook long enough, and eventually got off route and stumbled into Psycho in one long wandering yet exposed and fun lead. There is a bit of 5.10 right off the belay that is, for lack of a better word, spicy. You have to sling a hangerless quarter incher four feet out from the belay. The rest of the pitch (after where I broke over to psycho) seemed to be protected with a full museum of old, aid climbing gear, my partner tells me I missed spotting a bolt and pin on this section, all I saw was unispiring bashies. Anyway, all I mean to say is that this pitch deserves an s rating. The Psycho slab was a really cool exit.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.
    By Patrick Vernon
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jan 1, 2001

    A shoulder length sling is helpful between the first and second bolts, you can sling a protrusion and eliminate any runout.
    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 18, 2001

    The upper pitch is really good climbing. I did it first on aid a few years before Alec freed it. There was a small toy bunny tied to a fixed RURP and left in a rather suggestive pose.
    By XOG
    Mar 3, 2003

    I followed the upper 10 b/c in the early 90s and thought it was considerably harder than the 11 b/c first pitch. I remember hard moves off the belay, and an upper crux past fixed bashies in a smooth dihedral / groove sort of thing, which more or less sounds like what some other people are saying.
    By Eric May
    Sep 20, 2003

    Just about a week ago there was a rebolting day in Eldo. There was a guy up on the upper pitch of this route replacing many of the old nasty pins that used to be up there. I figured that I would give everyone a heads up about the new gear and also a huge thanks to the guys that were out there taking a day off of climbing to take care of Eldo. Props to you, guys!
    By Chris
    Sep 30, 2003

    The pins and bashies remain on the third pitch, as well they should for posterity. The four _ inchers were replaced by 3/8 inch stainless steel providers. This is a fantastic and overlooked pitch, especially with the face-lift! Don't let the AO roof dissuade you. No sense in stopping at the roof when aiming for the upper pitch. Tarzan your way through the roof and belay above the lip to finish pitch 1.
    By Alex Shainman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 10, 2007

    Was reading Ken Trout's comment (pic) re the 1st pitch bolt replacements...Yeah, totally bogus bolts, for sure!!! I remember when I first lead this. The topo descriptions in Boulder Climbs South said it all...The last, crux bolt must of been a Star-Drive cause I remember the head of the nail had snapped off and the shaft backed out or something??? And...Someone had bent both sides of the shaft outwards to "hold down" the hanger!! Sketcccchy!! Before the bolts were replaced, my friend Dave and I used to dangerously sandbag our outa-town friends onto this "old sport climb"...How lame is that?