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Eva Lopez finger training strategy + results
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By kenr
Jan 17, 2013

Idea coming from climbers in Spain is systematically hang from a progression of smaller and smaller edges -- possibly even down to 6 mm (less than 1/4 inch). Also do dead-hangs with maximum added weight on a larger edge around 18-20 mm (around 3/4 inch).

Most of the English-language discussion I've found so far is on Eva Lopez' blog . And there's a review of two fingerboards designed to support this strategy.


Results: The abstract for a paper by Eva Lopez giving results of an 8-week test by nine strong climbers of two variations of this training strategy ... showed around 6-9% gains in 5-second strength and 15% gains in endurance.

What do you think?


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jan 17, 2013

There was a thread on this, perhaps a month or two ago.


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By Casey Ryback
Jan 17, 2013
Chief Petty Officer and former Navy Seal turned chef

I would love to try it out. Aren't these boards pretty absurdly expensive including shipping to the US and the exchange rate??


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By Casey Ryback
Jan 17, 2013
Chief Petty Officer and former Navy Seal turned chef

I have a homemade 3/4 inch rung I do weighted hangs with, and I think Im gonna get a beastmaker 2000 for hanging on terrible holds without weight. It might be nice to have some variety with pockets and slopers like the beastmaker has instead of just small tranny edges...


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Jan 17, 2013

Nico Toscani wrote:
I would love to try it out. Aren't these boards pretty absurdly expensive including shipping to the US and the exchange rate??


Yes, they are. From Spain it will cost you close to $400. (I checked)

It can also be tricky because of damage to the board. There is a climbing gym in the UK that sells them, but they won't ship because the boards are liable to snap during transit.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Jan 17, 2013
At the BRC

The Spot has a Progression board but they haven't mounted it yet.
I'd definitely try a cycle if I could. Would especially like to try the smaller holds.


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Jan 17, 2013
On Waimea, 5.10d

it looks awesome. The transgression and the beastmaker 2000 would be a fantastic combination. $400, though...


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 17, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

I just jizzed myself when I saw those hangboreds. Then, last week, I hung on my friend's Beastmaster 2000, and I jizzed myself then, too. Actually, whenever I talk about hangboreding, I jizz myself. My wife is getting fed up with it, she says I'm spending too much time on the quarter-inch edges.

Ok, gonna go hangbored some more.


(fap fap fap fap)


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By dnoB ekiM
Jan 18, 2013
Wonderstuff

Charles Kinbote wrote:
it looks awesome. The transgression and the beastmaker 2000 would be a fantastic combination. $400, though...


I have both the Progression and Transgression. After 8 weeks on the program I had notable gains. I think the gains are more about recruitment than hypertrophy...but amazing gains nonetheless. Increase in added weight hangs from the 14mm for 10 seconds from 40lbs to 65lbs. Decrease in smallest edge held for 5 seconds from 10mm down to 8mm.

I just use the Transgression now. I have a Progression with a chip at the bottom that is still 100% functional that I will sell locally ( I will not ship) for $250 in Las Vegas.

These will cost you at least $375 and some importation hassles to get into the US.


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By dnoB ekiM
Jan 18, 2013
Wonderstuff

My Transgression

Transgression
Transgression


$250 for Las Vegas pick up only! Progression with small chip.


Progression $250
Progression $250


The Chip

Chip
Chip


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By dnoB ekiM
Jan 19, 2013
Wonderstuff

And yes...they (particularly the Progression) are hard to ship without damage.


Prog
Prog


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By kenr
Feb 8, 2013

Given the cost (and lack of usable space) for a "Progression" type fingerboard, I've started trying out a "poor mans" version -- namely plugging pieces of cardboard into the back of the shallowest pocket on my Metolius wooden fingerboard.

This seems to sort of work because the edges of this pocket are cut straight down into the wood, and the back of the pocket is flat and parallel with the front surface of the fingerboard.

Any advice about better materials to use for my inserts?
A good way to make them stay in place when I want them in, but remove them when I don't?

Thanks a lot,

Ken


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By frankstoneline
Feb 8, 2013

kenr wrote:
Given the cost (and lack of usable space) for a "Progression" type fingerboard, I've started trying out a "poor mans" version -- namely plugging pieces of cardboard into the back of the shallowest pocket on my Metolius wooden fingerboard. This seems to sort of work because the edges of this pocket are cut straight down into the wood, and the back of the pocket is flat and parallel with the front surface of the fingerboard. Any advice about better materials to use for my inserts? A good way to make them stay in place when I want them in, but remove them when I don't? Thanks a lot, Ken


You could buy an oak rung from a hardware store and screw it to your wall then simply use shims of variable thickness (paper, cardboard, wood, whatever) and double sided tape to make the rung "smaller"? Basically the same thing you are doing but without stuffing things into your current board.
Eva's blog has an interesting looking device on it that she talks about being the first iteration of the progression board. looked like a wood rung with an adjustable back board that you moved with some screws, could build something like that?


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By kenr
Feb 8, 2013

Thanks - just the sort of simple idea I needed.
And I do have space for it.

Ken

P.S. Perhaps this is the "interesting looking device"

I found it on this page of Eva Lopez blog.


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By frankstoneline
Feb 8, 2013

kenr wrote:
Thanks - just the sort of simple idea I needed. And I do have space for it. Ken P.S. Perhaps this is the "interesting looking device" I found it on this page of Eva Lopez blog.


thats the one!

I was thinking if you bought a bunch of washers and measured their thickness you could keep adding them behind the back board and then you'd know exactly how much you reduced the size of the rung, and you'd also ensure uniform size across the entire rung (or at least close).


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By CJC
Feb 8, 2013

tape measure or caliper seems easier


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By frankstoneline
Feb 8, 2013

CJC wrote:
tape measure or caliper seems easier


but what do you use as spacers to keep the board from sliding back? just a pair of bolts i guess? that would work too.


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By CJC
Feb 8, 2013

thread nuts on the inside of the block. and a couple of washers to protect the wood.


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By slim
Administrator
Feb 8, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

frankstoneline wrote:
thats the one! I was thinking if you bought a bunch of washers and measured their thickness you could keep adding them behind the back board and then you'd know exactly how much you reduced the size of the rung, and you'd also ensure uniform size across the entire rung (or at least close).


i like this idea. i have been thinking about building a hangboard (totally ironic, as i have always argued that it is cheaper/more efficient to just buy one). i currently have a V5.12 and have outgrown it, also it is terrible for trying to train for pockets. i'll have to keep your idea in mind.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 8, 2013

Keep in mind that wooden contraptions will swell/shrink with changes in temp/humidity. That will, in turn, change the size of your edge.

So you might want some kind of calipers, or fixed width jigs made from another material like plastic to verify your depth before each workout. The swell/shrink won't be a lot, but I'd think that even 5%-10% in edge width will make a big difference when training at your limit.


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By kenr
Feb 8, 2013

Will S wrote:
Keep in mind that wooden contraptions will swell/shrink with changes in temp/humidity.

Luckily when I made a long visit to my local home-improvement store this morning ... in addition to the recommmended oak ledge piece, I also got some thin plastic and less-thin firm-rubber sheet-like things to use as shims.

Because I was hoping they'd be easier (than wood) to cut into useful shapes - to modify existing holds on my fingerboards.

Now I'm glad to discover they'll offer another benefit ... for this problem of swelling and shrinking.

(tho I guess if the basic underlying edge is wood, I still need the calipers or something. But if I can add shims to my resin fingerboard ... )

Ken

P.S. Travel - now I'm thinking all I need is a ziplock bag with a cleverly designed set of shims, plus calipers, perhaps some double-side tape -- and any convenient doorway I can find with a solid ledge over it becomes a scientific edge-grip training center.


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By frankstoneline
Feb 9, 2013

Will S wrote:
Keep in mind that wooden contraptions will swell/shrink with changes in temp/humidity. That will, in turn, change the size of your edge. So you might want some kind of calipers, or fixed width jigs made from another material like plastic to verify your depth before each workout. The swell/shrink won't be a lot, but I'd think that even 5%-10% in edge width will make a big difference when training at your limit.


How much do you think a rung will swell/shrink? I mean, are we talking changes of grip width of 10% or more on the order of 1%? I hadnt thought of this and now I'm a little concerned about this issue, though I'm hesitant to purchase a set of calipers.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 14, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!

if the lopez boards weren't such a PITA to get in the USA I'd consider one. The idea is interesting and would be worth experimenting with. As it was I'm just going to get a wooden board as the plastic metolius board I've used for the last two rounds has been eating my skin when hanging with a lot of weight. I'm hoping the wood helps plus mounting two fans ala mark anderson instead of the one big fan I am using now. After two complete sessions of hangboarding I'm seeing big gains and redoing my setup to be more skin friendly plus add pinches and a tiny edge to simulate route types I like.


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By frankstoneline
Feb 14, 2013

Chris Plesko wrote:
if the lopez boards weren't such a PITA to get in the USA I'd consider one. The idea is interesting and would be worth experimenting with. As it was I'm just going to get a wooden board as the plastic metolius board I've used for the last two rounds has been eating my skin when hanging with a lot of weight. I'm hoping the wood helps plus mounting two fans ala mark anderson instead of the one big fan I am using now. After two complete sessions of hangboarding I'm seeing big gains and redoing my setup to be more skin friendly plus add pinches and a tiny edge to simulate route types I like.


What do your sessions look like?
I've been able to add ~2% body weight/session with an eva lopez style workout with a few additions.

Are you thinking beastmaker or something else for a wood board?


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 14, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!

I'm basically follwoing the rock prodigy format of 10sec/5sec repeaters. 6 grips plus a sub maximal warm up set on jugs, 3 sets each grip for the rest. I add 5-10lbs per session usually, occasionally 2 sessions in a row at the same weight. All grips are bodyweight or higher now, the most being +60lbs. It's made a HUGE improvement in my open hand strength which was my primary goal.

I've been through two 8 session rounds and will be switching to 7/3 for round 3 plus replacing my sloper set with a pinch.

The beastmaker is probably the easiest board for me to just order that's wood. Pockets and the deeper two edges on the metolius board tear up my skin unless it's really cold. I'll mount my pinches and juges for warmup separate.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 14, 2013

Chris Plesko wrote:
The beastmaker is probably the easiest board for me to just order that's wood.



Metolius sells a couple different models of wooden hangboards. I trained on one of them for a couple cycles. Never seen any of the Beastmaker models in person, so I can't compare them with the Metolius.

I'm considering just getting a nice slab of wood and taking it to a local CNC shop with some specs and sketches have them machine me a board similar to the Lopez boards. Anyone got a good suggestion for wood species for something like that? Something that will mill precisely without splitting, cracking, etc.


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