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Europa 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A0

   
Type: Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, 850'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A0 [details]
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Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Mike Teschke on Aug 2, 2009
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"Europa", pitch 7

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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is a recent project that has generated a lot of online (and likely offline) debate in the last couple years. The goal was to clean a line that beginners could climb that basically tops out on the chief. It actually ends at Bellygood Ledge, and I think the easiest finish to summit the first peak would be 4 pitches on the Upper Black Dyke at a sportingly bolt protected 5.10b rating.

I found it enjoyable, and fairly 'adventurous' for mostly 5.7 climbing. There are some loose flakes and blocks on the route and gear placements are not always simple. All of the pitches are 100 feet long or longer.

Pitch 1 - 5.7 Start about 100 yards to the right of the Black Dyke, up a blocky chimney/corner crack system that is packed tight with table sized flakes. There is a spacious belay ledge. Gear belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 Head up a pretty nice hand crack right off the belay ledge, probably the crux of the climb and quite nice for about 30ft. Follow ledges and cracks to a belay at a large fir tree.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Finger crack crux near the top.
Pitch 4 - 5.5 Climb up a tree to the top of a large flake. Traverse right and climb up into a chimney with terrible protection and brittle nasty feeling rock. Gigantic Bolted belay. This is apparently the start of a rap line to use during falcon closures and can be rapped with a single 60m rope.
Pitch 5 - 5.6 Mostly easy climbing.
Pitch 6 - 5.7, A0 Starts with a nine bolt ladder to reach a hand/fist crack. Belay below the chimney. (Apparently there is a free variation that goes to the left of the belay station up a protectable chimney corner then traverses back right into the start of the hand crack. I am not sure what the grade goes at but I'd guess no harder 5.10-?)
Pitch 7 - 5.6 Fun series of chimneys to the top.


Location 

This climb runs basically up the same location as Crap Crags with much cleaning and some variations on the lines. It climbs up the large blocky ledge and flake system that forms the divide between the grand wall and the Diherals.


Protection 

Doubles to #2 Camalot, 1 #3. I didn't use much gear smaller than a purple cam. Mostly gear belays.



Photos of Europa Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 3
pitch 3
"Europa", pitch 6
"Europa", pitch 6
Europa pitch 2
Europa pitch 2
pitch 1
pitch 1
"Europa", pitch 4
"Europa", pitch 4
"Europa", pitch 7
"Europa", pitch 7
"Europa", pitch 6 <br />
"Europa", pitch 6
"Europa", pitch 4 tree
"Europa", pitch 4 tree
Comments on Europa Add Comment
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By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Aug 19, 2011

Apparently Kevin McLane published this route in his newest Western Canada guide book. His opinion on the grades differs from mine. Consider giving that a look if 5.8 or 5.9 trad leading is at the limit of your comfort zone or if you think your climbing parnter may struggle seconding 5.8.

By AJV
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A0

We started with Arrowroot and then traversed to join the route. I would not recommend doing that - it got sketchy. Both me and my partner found the climb a little stiff for the grade. Apparently the bolt ladder has been removed (we didn't confirm this, but were told by the party in front). The bolted 10d line (part of the Gauntlet I believe) now has 5 or 6 bolts and could be aided to the crack. I would suggest trying it free as it's very well bolted now and the leader will have a bolt above their waist for every hard move.