Fun airy climbing on this line. Well bolted - so if the look of the line scares you - don't worry give 'er a go. Carefully climb the start avoiding rodent dung as you pass the initial corner. Find the best way to traverse left into the airy arete. Search for the best holds on nice solid swiss cheese limestone. Fun climbing all the way to the chains eases as the angle recedes. Grade is debatable - given 10d in the guidebook.
Located at the far left side of sector Shinto on the left prow - both Eurotrash girl and Werewolves in London (10b/c) start in the same corner, with WIL going up and right, while Eurotrash girl heads up towards the wide crack before traversing out left to the arete.
12 bolts to anchors. Bring some longer draws to cut down on rope drag.
From: Moab, UT
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Seems like a convoluted line - trying to force the climber onto the arete when the seemingly obvious line just goes up the face? Either way, good warmup I guess.
|By Christian Rinker|
From: Lander and Riverton, Wyoming(
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Hey ok..the point of slimbing is to challenge your self out of ur norm and to try something other then the obviouse route. This route is a great warm up for a long day on the shinto wall and a day in the french cattle ranch area. Great confidence builder for people first time to the 10-11 grade level. Dont let the first mini bulge, and the awsome built in crux on the second bulge scare, Oh and watch out for the bat guano.
|By Dan Brayack|
From: Marmet, WV
Jul 9, 2012
Awesome route! I didn't clip the bolt in the traverse, it was a bit low, but no one ever got hurt with there being tooooo many bolts. I love it thanks!!