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North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter 
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Eureka 
Fire On The Mountain 
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Life is like a rubber rope 
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Pansy Wall 
Rinky Dink Direct finish 
Southeast arete (of the Camel) 
Spectre Man 
Tarantula 

Eureka 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: nathan brown 2000
Season: dry
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 29, 2010
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  • All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a great face climb that goes up between "Mitzietzusparen" and "Freebird".

    Start on obvious right facing corner and climb a short ways until it is possible to traverse out right onto the face. Climb the face via amazing finger buckets and horizontals past a tricky section protected by a bolt. Pull the crux and continue up on amazing jugs. Belay on gear wherever is convenient, roughly at 120'. Continue up easier terrain to the ledge.

    Many possible variations up the next wall, including 4th classing up and left.


    Location 

    Off of Tarantula Ledge, just left of Freebird.


    Protection 

    Doubles on small to medium cams and 1 bolt at crux.



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