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Global Village
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Casual Viewing T 
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Vision T 

Eureka 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Scott Hammon and James Neukam, 1999
Page Views: 3,282
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Great 5.6 with all the different kinds of rock to ...

Description 

Can you say vertical jug climbing? This route follows the orange and purple streaks up the vertical wall left of Fahter and Son.

This route is very popular and for good reason.

Despite the easy grade it can seem heady to lead and there is the element of loose rock involved on this route.

It's worth the walk in though, the moves are fantastic and the route unforgettable for beginners.

Location 

Look left from Father and Son to the obvious vertical face just past an overhanging area. Best to rappel from the anchors.

Protection 

Bolts, bolted anchors.


Photos of Eureka Slideshow Add Photo
Great for the new leader. I give it 4.5 stars.
Great for the new leader. I give it 4.5 stars.
great climb for the someone not used to bigger climbs
great climb for the someone not used to bigger cli...
Very fun 5.6
Very fun 5.6
Eureka 5.6 at Lady Slipper- Global Village
Eureka 5.6 at Lady Slipper- Global Village
Fun to climb!
Fun to climb!
rest day, putting up eureka
rest day, putting up eureka
Holly dancing with shadow as the sunsets on Eureka
Holly dancing with shadow as the sunsets on Eureka

Comments on Eureka Add Comment
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By Sam Stephens
May 18, 2010

I laughed the entire way up this. This was so much fun it was ridiculous.
By willsnow
From: park city
Aug 5, 2010

so much fun! huge plates and jugs on a tall route for the grade. set up a top rope and get your new climbers up something tall. and watch out for hornets nest sometimes.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route, led on gear. A couple cams finger to hand size and some small stoppers protects it well. As of 5/22/11 the bolts aren't chopped but protects well with gear so I didn't use them.
By Jeff Christbaum
From: Muskego, WI
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed it early this season, and it was 100% worth the hike. Easily one of the most fun moderates we hit the entire trip. Great views, lots of exposure, solid climbing, and un-chopped bolts. Next trip will be on all gear to make it even more interesting.
By Mike Gehle
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is, hands down, my favorite route I've climbed to date. Juggy hold after Juggy hold, yet tall enough that there was a real sense of accomplishment after finishing it. Best route ever!!
By Casey the "Renaissance Man"
Jul 11, 2012

Lead it on gear. Bolts have not been chopped in a while. This is another good one for the beginning leader, if they get scared or worry about thier gear placement they can just clip a bolt. Expect to see it crowded on the weekends.
By kevin614d
Mar 28, 2014

Classic. Doesn't matter that it is easy, its an awesome climb.