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This takes the smooth face a ways left of 200 Motels/Taken For Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up.
Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal.
Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress.
10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
Bobby P. on Eureka.
Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1992
|By Vernon Stiefel|
Dec 14, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
This incredible route is another classic by Bob Gaines. Sustained 5.11 face climbing past the first 7 bolts leads to a very difficult move to an undercling and the 8th bolt. Gaining the 9th bolt involves perplexing and strenuous moves; once deciphered enlightenment is achieved. At least four out of five stars.
Feb 14, 2010
Enlightenment was not obtained. Fantastic and sustained climbing to the roof on impeccable grey rock.
The rappel off the anchor is nearly 100 foot. A single 60 meter suffices.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 10, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
This is one of the best Bob Gaines routes I have been on. Sustained and sequential edging and crimping through the bottom section. Really fun and imaginative moves at the crux. Very well bolted. Totally worth the hike out to the buttress!