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Rattlesnake Buttress
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Eureka! 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, 1992
Page Views: 1,972
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Photo by John Heyges
a) 200 Motels
b) Eureka

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Description 

This takes the smooth face a ways left of 200 Motels/Taken For Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up.

Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal.

Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress.


Protection 

10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap



Photos of Eureka! Slideshow Add Photo
Bobby P. on Eureka.
Bobby P. on Eureka.
Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1992
Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1992
Rappelling Eureka
Rappelling Eureka
Comments on Eureka! Add Comment
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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 14, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This incredible route is another classic by Bob Gaines. Sustained 5.11 face climbing past the first 7 bolts leads to a very difficult move to an undercling and the 8th bolt. Gaining the 9th bolt involves perplexing and strenuous moves; once deciphered enlightenment is achieved. At least four out of five stars.

By Randy
Feb 14, 2010

Enlightenment was not obtained. Fantastic and sustained climbing to the roof on impeccable grey rock.

The rappel off the anchor is nearly 100 foot. A single 60 meter suffices.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 10, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

This is one of the best Bob Gaines routes I have been on. Sustained and sequential edging and crimping through the bottom section. Really fun and imaginative moves at the crux. Very well bolted. Totally worth the hike out to the buttress!