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Pennyroyal Arches
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L to R R to L Alpha
Diaphoretic Spasms 
White Slab 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Wayne Merry, Jack Miller, Tom Gerughty
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Aug 22, 2007
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First pitch of Euphoria.


Four pitch route.
P1 5.7 Very long pitch. Try to make the belay past the small bush/tree.
P2 5.5R Climb shallow corner to face. Don't pass up protection opportunities especially on the lower part of the face (med cams).
P3 5.6 Great pitch. Run the rope out a full 200 feet if possible.
P4 5.6 Another long pitch.


Route is located on left side of huge arch. Look for three dihedrals next to each other on the left side of the big overhanging arch. Euphoria is the middle route. Rappel starting from tree to the climber's right to a two bolt rap station. Thence for another three full length rappels. Last rappel is located to the climber's right but viewable from rappel station, and, goes free air over the arch for a short bit. Two 60m ropes.


Standard rack. No fixed gear on route.

Photos of Euphoria Slideshow Add Photo
Second pitch of Euphoria.  Note the runout (not huge but don't fall).  Cam placements near bottom of face in small pods in seams.
Second pitch of Euphoria. Note the runout (not hu...
3rd pitch of Euphoria.  Great flake climbing leads to corner crack up higher.  Loooong pitch.  Or, break 'er into two pitches.
3rd pitch of Euphoria. Great flake climbing leads...
Comments on Euphoria Add Comment
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By Mark Kadlec
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

This line was really great, it's in the shade all morning and not many people do this wall.

We did this with only one 70m rope and were going to walk off climbers-right using the slabs. Beware, that could have been deadly. When we finally realized the death potential, pulled out the GPS and used the backside of the head-wall to descend the creek valley. It was not only safe that way, but also an awesome hike back.