|Penny Royal Arches
Four pitch route.
P1 5.7 Very long pitch. Try to make the belay past the small bush/tree.
P2 5.5R Climb shallow corner to face. Don't pass up protection opportunities especially on the lower part of the face (med cams).
P3 5.6 Great pitch. Run the rope out a full 200 feet if possible.
P4 5.6 Another long pitch.
Route is located on left side of huge arch. Look for three dihedrals next to each other on the left side of the big overhanging arch. Euphoria is the middle route. Rappel starting from tree to the climber's right to a two bolt rap station. Thence for another three full length rappels. Last rappel is located to the climber's right but viewable from rappel station, and, goes free air over the arch for a short bit. Two 60m ropes.
Standard rack. No fixed gear on route.
Second pitch of Euphoria. Note the runout (not hu...
3rd pitch of Euphoria. Great flake climbing leads...
|By Mark Kadlec|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
This line was really great, it's in the shade all morning and not many people do this wall.
We did this with only one 70m rope and were going to walk off climbers-right using the slabs. Beware, that could have been deadly. When we finally realized the death potential, pulled out the GPS and used the backside of the head-wall to descend the creek valley. It was not only safe that way, but also an awesome hike back.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jun 5, 2014
I did this many years ago and thought it was a great romp up a nice route. There's a rap line somewhere I recall with a nice final rap over a big overhang. Lots of fun.
|By Todd Townsend|
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 28, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Climbed this route today, and surprisingly, there was another party who came up behind us. I think this is a quality route, albeit a bit vegetated and dirty (and damp today). It would benefit from some more traffic to clean it up.
Pitch 1: I didn't like the look of the bushes/awkwardness of following the middle crack/dihedral the whole way, so I opted to climb halfway up the corner of "Pennyroyal High" and then pull up left at the top of the flake into the Euphoria corner. (In fact, I wasn't sure if that was actually the preferred way to go (given the vegetation) but Brian's photo shows that you can also follow the middle crack the whole way.) I don't know if I just wasn't warmed up yet, but that initial corner of "Pennyroyal High" felt really hard and sustained for 5.7. Granted, it's a bit lichenous, and was wet from yesterday's rain, so YMMV. Belay just above the bush, which had bail slings on it today.
Pitch 2: The "5.5" isn't too runout as long as you find the gear. This pitch may have gotten harder over the years, as I broke off a knob today, and I'm sure I'm not the first to do so. Belay at the bottom of the flake for the next pitch. My partner belayed too far to the left and we had to split pitch 3 into two pitches since I ran out of rope.
Pitch 3: Really fun flake and knob climbing for the first 3/4 of this pitch. When the flake ends, climb up the somewhat awkward right facing corner to a good ledge. As long as you have belayed in the right spot, a 60m rope should just make it.
Pitch 4: 50ft of 5.6 laybacking and then easier flakes, knobs, and corners to the top. a 60m rope will get you to the tree that is the first rap anchor.
4 double rope raps to get down. You should be able to see each of the anchors fairly easily. There is a large crack on the second rap that your ropes will probably go into, but there didn't seem to be anything for them to get caught on inside. Angle right on the third rap to get to the fourth anchor.
We brought a set of nuts, singles grey-orange mastercams, doubles .5-3 camalots, and a single #4 camalot. This was adequate, but required some running out in easier terrain. The cracks are mostly fingers to hands. If you really want to sew it up, bring a second #4 and more cams in the yellow mastercam-#2 camalot range.
PS - We looked over at "Eagle Dihedral" and it appears to be a bushy mess. Probably a good adventure for someone into that sort of thing.