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In the old days, this was the place to go if you were seeking challenging moderates or warm-ups for the exciting upper grades the canyon has to offer. To a degree, this is still true. However, in today's modern 21st century, the second and third wave of route development has turned this former one horse climbing area into stronghold of moderates and upper end test pieces.
Many of us like going to the Sunshine wall because the hike is easy and enjoyable. The new guidebook describes a trail that should bring you right up to this area, however, it can be a pain in the neck to find. To use this new trail park in the large Sunshine parking lot and start hiking uphill towards Newcastle. Keep looking to the right until you see a small sign that says "Butt Rocks" and follow the meandering, not-so-well developed trail to the crag.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall":
San Francisco, CA 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 69'
July 4th 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Simply Ravishing 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 70'
The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 70'
Sink It and Wink It 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 60'
Dr. Feelgood 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 50'
She's Only 17 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 17'
Rebel Yell 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 50'
Crimptonight 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Panama! 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 55'
Once Bitten, Twice Shy 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 65'
Featured Route For Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
July 4th 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a SD : Spearfish Canyon : ... : Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
This absolutely fabulous route will make you stand up and salute Spearfish Canyon. Starts on "Oh beautiful for spacious pockets" and works its way to "Amber waves of a roof" that might give the intermediate climber a WTF moment. But don't worry, just think about how to attack the problem, and go for it, the moves are all there and the protection is exactly where you want it. Then keep jug hauling up this "purple mountain majesty", and you will end up far "above the fruited plains". Has anyone ev...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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