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In the old days, this was the place to go if you were seeking challenging moderates or warm-ups for the exciting upper grades the canyon has to offer. To a degree, this is still true. However, in today's modern 21st century, the second and third wave of route development has turned this former one horse climbing area into stronghold of moderates and upper end test pieces.
Many of us like going to the Sunshine wall because the hike is easy and enjoyable. The new guidebook describes a trail that should bring you right up to this area, however, it can be a pain in the neck to find. To use this new trail park in the large Sunshine parking lot and start hiking uphill towards Newcastle. Keep looking to the right until you see a small sign that says "Butt Rocks" and follow the meandering, not-so-well developed trail to the crag.
14 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall":
San Francisco, CA 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 69'
July 4th 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Corn Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Simply Ravishing 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 70'
1902 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 70'
Dr. Feelgood 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 50'
Bitch Fucking Rat Sticks! 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 70'
She's Only 17 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 17'
Rebel Yell 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 50'
Panama! 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 55'
Once Bitten Twice Shy 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 65'
Crimptonight 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Euphamiah Beresford Memorial Wall aka "The Butt Rocks Wall"
The Euphamiah Beresford Memorial 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c SD : Spearfish Canyon : ... : Euphamiah Beresford Memoria...
If you look closely at the bottom of this route you can see the pencil writings of a gold miner who more than likely struck out. Lucky for you, this canyon classic will surely be your chance to strike it rich. An awesome winter-time climb! The face of this route bakes in full on direct sunlight most of the day while the other EBM/Buttrocks routes go in the shade.Think ya got what it takes to take this canyon classic down? Then rack yourself up a dozen draws and try putting this bad boy up after ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD