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 ADVANCED
Ten-Minute Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Traverse 
Babel 
Eunuch in a Whorehouse 
Gardens of Babylon 
Scorpio 
Ten Minute Crack 

Eunuch in a Whorehouse 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 27, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Ten Minute Cliff. Click photo for high-res version...

Description 

Stay to the Left of the crack on knobs using the crack only occasionally for a thin finger lock and right foot. Gastones, mantles, crimps, sloapers, finger jams, slab and even a dyno for some are the name of the game for this test piece. This route utilizes many different forms of climbing in one short delicate pitch. Leading this route would be insane to even think about and would definitely take a lot of nuts. Small brass ones to be exact.


Location 

Very thin crack 50ft Right of the Ten Minute Crack. Climb on the left of the crack not up it. And try and avoid stepping on the BS, useless chicken bolt next to the crack that is supposed to protect the opening moves of Scorpio...or better yet, chop the SOB.


Protection 

Top Rope, or..... Small nuts, ball nuts and microcams. Maybe a bat hook and some duct tape (sheesh!)



Photos of Eunuch in a Whorehouse Slideshow Add Photo
Eunuch in a Whorehouse- climb the knobs and use the crack when you can! Toprope with anchors up above.
BETA PHOTO: Eunuch in a Whorehouse- climb the knobs and use th...
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