All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Placerville > Cosumnes River… > Ten-Minute Cliff

Eunuch in a Whorehouse

Name: Eunuch in a Whorehouse
Rating: 1.5

5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in Ten-Minute Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.10 Traverse T V0 4
	Babel T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Eunuch in a Whorehouse T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Gardens of Babylon T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scorpio T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ten Minute Crack T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,730 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Salamanizer Ski on Mar 27, 2006
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Stay to the Left of the crack on knobs using the crack only occasionally for a thin finger lock and right foot. Gastones, mantles, crimps, sloapers, finger jams, slab and even a dyno for some are the name of the game for this test piece. This route utilizes many different forms of climbing in one short delicate pitch. Leading this route would be insane to even think about and would definitely take a lot of nuts. Small brass ones to be exact.

Location

Very thin crack 50ft Right of the Ten Minute Crack. Climb on the left of the crack not up it. And try and avoid stepping on the BS, useless chicken bolt next to the crack that is supposed to protect the opening moves of Scorpio...or better yet, chop the SOB.