|Ridge 3 aka Angel's Way
This pitch is just South (downhill) from the middle gap in the upper part of Ridge Three (Angel's Way), on its SW face. This gap is immediately West of the top of Ridge Two (Satan's Slab). It is the giant, obvious left-facing corner that is slabby at the start, vertical in the middle, and very overhanging at the top. You actually don't climb the slabby part of the corner as it looks really hard and unprotected. Instead climb an easy crack, through the slab to the corner's left, to gain a ledge that can easily be traversed to the corner proper. Now climb the corner with awesome stemming and then some easier, but thuggish, wideness through the roof section. The topout is very cool. I would call this pitch three stars if it weren't for a loosish flake in the middle section of the corner. We also found it to be quite hard for the grade. Intended as our warm-up, it turned into a bit of a project. 115'.
A short, easy downclimb off the back takes you to a forested ramp that leads back to the base.
Standard rack with RPs and a couple big pieces (up to #4 Camalot).
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
The 5.10b/c given to this route in Rossiter's book looks like a Y.D.S. rating but is not. In fact, is it a Dan Hare euphemism for "I dunno, but it is really awkward." Anyone climbing any of his 5.10b/c routes on Hawk Eagle Ridge in Eldo should be familiar with this particular sub-grade. While the route is not greatly challenging, you might find it awkward.
Of note, this is NOT a good route to push limits, mental or physical on, for the first or second. The initial 20' is not protected and while not hard is NOT a give-me (5.8, X) and the upper part is protected frequently, but mostly on very small nuts (from brass up to #5 BD stopper + 2" cam in a horizontal I cleaned out). My second fell after the crux and swung out quite a way and could not get back into the corner. He elected to reattain the main system via a tree-choked crack out to the right.
The roof up top is a little thuggish, but far easier than the thin dihedral and does not require wide gear. I was perfectly happy with a single set of Camalots to #3 and a set of stoppers + RPs.