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 ADVANCED
The Right Bunker
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bottled Up Warrior S 
Dummkopf S 
Ethnic Cleansing S 
Gas Chamber S 
Kill or be Killed S 
Lynn's Route S 
Something's Always Wrong S 

Ethnic Cleansing 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1993
Page Views: 3,048
Submitted By: FCJohn on Dec 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Henry Robinson on the face of Ethnic Cleansing

Description 

Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.

Location 

On the right side of the Right Bunker.

Protection 

Six Bolts to a chain anchor


Photos of Ethnic Cleansing Slideshow Add Photo
Henry Robinson making the dyno move of Ethnic Clea...
Henry Robinson making the dyno move of Ethnic Clea...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 2, 2015
By Jeremy Y
Apr 22, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
Does anyone know the condition of the permadraws on this route? Last time I was there the first one (which shouldnt see many falls) wasn't in great shape, and I heard that the most critical one right before the dyno needed fixing too.
By 426
Feb 28, 2007

DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c.

For me, crux was making the anchor clip.

Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire.
By bbrock
From: Al
Mar 24, 2007

I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets
By Ryan J
From: chattanooga tn
May 21, 2007

Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains.

As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new.
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 8, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away.
By Gregg
From: Englewood
Jul 9, 2008

Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 11, 2012

I believe the recent perma-draw work was done by the Action Fund.
By Gable
May 26, 2014

The first perma draw needs replacing if someone can let the appropriate people know. The pin/axle holding the gate can and will back out and the cable is fraying from constant rubbing.
By jamie cummins
Aug 22, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

soft for the grade, one move wonder, if your tall its 11b.
By Christopher Deal
From: Fargo, ND
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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