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YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Topher Donahue, Tommy Caldwell
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: topher donahue on Dec 2, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Etch-a-Sketch topo.


Watch for a gymnastic placement for a #0 (purple) Metolius TCU on your right at the lip of the roof that protects the 5.13 crux. After the belay, (1 bolt and pin) look for a 1.25" cam up to the left before traversing right into the runout 5.12 3rd pitch.

The cruxes on this climb are spicy, but the falls are clean even if your pants are not....

Tommy said this route and nearby Keel Haul and Yard Arms are the best naturally protected face climbs he's ever done. Think high quality sport climbing - without the bolts.


Thin to hand size - extra thin, finger size.

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