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 ADVANCED
South Fork
Routes Sorted
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"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
1/2 Route, AKA Unknown S 
Altered States T 
Arete Sport Climb T 
Center Route T 
Dost Mitra S 
Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
Hueco Direct Start T 
Hueco Traverse S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
Namaste S 
Pins and Needles S 
Pulp Friction S 
Sand Surfin' S 
Self Abuse S 
Shotgun T 
Southern Comfort T 
Spiderfinger T 
Tail Of The Cock T 
Tango T 
Touch Me Fall T 
Twins Paradox S 
Xanadu T 
Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

"ET" Extremely Tough Slab 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: UNK
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Brian Aitken on Jun 9, 2012

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Description 

The good? It's in an awesome place and has some fun, yet challenging, friction and slab moves. The bad? It has some challenging friction and slab moves.

Location 

It's been ten years... can't really remember. Will update later.

Protection 

A few bolts to chains.


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By the professor
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is the leftmost route on Marmot Slab (across the narrows from Namaste, Huecos Rancheros, etc.)

FA in 2002 by the professor and Ted Baker. The name "ET" represented first initials of the FA team. On a subsequent ascent, a climber guessed that "ET" meant "extremely tough" and the name has stuck.

The first three bolts are more widely spaced than some of the other slabs routes in the vicinity, but the climbing is only 5.9. There is an extremely tough crux at bolt four: fingernail wrinkles and for the feet a slight bump the size and thickness of a dime. The rest of the route is 5.10/5.11 with closely spaced bolts. You can lower with one 60 meter rope.

There is a second hidden anchor about 12 feet above the chains, but nobody has freed this bit.