|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Brian Aitken on Jun 9, 2012|
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on "ET" Extremely Tough Slab||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By the professor
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This is the leftmost route on Marmot Slab (across the narrows from Namaste, Huecos Rancheros, etc.)
FA in 2002 by the professor and Ted Baker. The name "ET" represented first initials of the FA team. On a subsequent ascent, a climber guessed that "ET" meant "extremely tough" and the name has stuck.
The first three bolts are more widely spaced than some of the other slabs routes in the vicinity, but the climbing is only 5.9. There is an extremely tough crux at bolt four: fingernail wrinkles and for the feet a slight bump the size and thickness of a dime. The rest of the route is 5.10/5.11 with closely spaced bolts. You can lower with one 60 meter rope.
There is a second hidden anchor about 12 feet above the chains, but nobody has freed this bit.