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Beat Around the Bush T 
Clean Sweep S 
Estrellita T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Hammack, Rico Meleski, 1976
Page Views: 4,275
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 22, 2006

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Sep. 2, 2006. Carl Devendorf, my older brother, is...


A well protected crack on good rock. Touted by the Sandia Rock guide as "The best 5.8 in the Sandias". The crack begins at the right end of the formation and continues to a right facing dihedral. Midway up this dihedral (not far past a piece of fixed pro- an old stuck cam), you will step left, out of the dihedral, and onto the face. Continue up the crack system to the top of the climb.


Gear: 1 set of cams to #2, set of nuts.
Anchors: Gear (cams and nuts, cannot remember sizes.)
Descent: Walk off by scrambling into a gully at the southside of the formation. Easy fifth class downclimbing.

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Chuck moving through the routes crux
Chuck moving through the routes crux
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By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Dec 31, 2006

A pseudo 3-pitch climb can be done, when combing Estrellita with Miss Piggy. Once topping out on Estrellita walk off the formation and continue heading east for 20 yards, pass the La Luz mine and climb Miss Piggy; another 3-star 5.8 route 2 pitches in length.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super fun line with great pro, solid rock, good moves and easy access! Definitely recommended!

I did not see any pitons or other gear at the top of the formation to belay from. Perhaps I just didn't look hard enough but I'm guessing they've been removed.

By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome climb. Our first ever trad climb which makes it a favorite for sure. Great pro all the way up on some real solid rock. Reccommend to all. Guide books say there are bolt anchors at the top. There aren't. Be prepared to belay off of gear.

By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Jun 4, 2008

Bolts were chopped by a local who informed the bolter that they would be chopped. The chopping was justified IMO, it is very easy to walk off. The gear anchor is good.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An excellent climb. The top anchor takes large or medium nuts and hand/finger-ish sized cams. The walk off is mellow, no need for fixed pro on top.