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The Spider's Web
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bird's Nest T 
Captian Hooks T 
Dacker Cracker T,TR 
Drop, Fly, or Die T 
Esthesia T 
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 
It's Only Entertainment T 
Lycanthropia T 
Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 
On The Loose T 
Peace In Our Climbs T 
Pumpernickel T 
Romano's Route T 
Slim Pickins T 
TR T 
Wheelin N' Dealin T 
White Knight T 
Yvonne T 
Zabba T 

Esthesia 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA--Grant Calder, John Wald, and Dave Cilley, 7/28/76 FFA--Todd Eastman and Dave Cilley, 4/77
Page Views: 5,490
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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The Esthesia crux being done as an akward offwidth...

Description 

es-th-sia (n)--"The ability or capacity for sensation or feeling; sensitivity."

Rather ironic, considering this route often leaves a climber's forearms numb and devoid of feeling!

Just to the left of Slim Pickins is the exquisite outside corner of Esthesia. Marked by the 5 to 6 inch wide overhanging corner, this line epitomizes all that is essential for classic Dacks climbing: Desperately pumpy, intimidating climbing with almost impeccable gear (read: a slight runout on pumpy terrain.).

Start this line of strength on the ramp-like feature about 10 feet off the ground. Climb through a series of vertical cracks, surmount a small roof and gain a good rest below the crux second roof.

Place a #5 Camalot as high as you can in the wide crack and punch it through the steep, pumpy, AND unnerving layback with smeary feet. Rumor has it that this section can be climbed as an offwidth, but visual documentation is still at large.

Easier climbing above deposits the climber at the shared chain anchors with Slim Pickins atop the nice, spacious belay ledge.

Location 

The large outside corner to the left of Slim Pickins.

Protection 

A loaded rack! Carry stoppers and a small assortment of aliens, plus doubles in everything from a .75 to #3 Camalot, and a #5 for the offwidth.


Photos of Esthesia Slideshow Add Photo
The full route
The full route
Beginning the physical layback of Esthesia.
Beginning the physical layback of Esthesia.
Mid crux.
Mid crux.
The grim alternative to laybacking...
The grim alternative to laybacking...
Esthesia
BETA PHOTO: Esthesia

Comments on Esthesia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2009

Gerry,
Thanks for the "visual documentation" of the off-width technique required to battle this beast!
By climberKJ
From: Holderness, NH
Sep 28, 2009

Get in it. It's good. Can get through crux just fine with a #4.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
May 22, 2010

For sure it's an OW. I suck at all sorts of cracks and still managed to avoid the layback until the last few feet.

Also, I think the biggest piece we had was a 3.5
By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yeah, a # 4 BD is a godsend on this thing--so much fun! Just the first 20 feet or so are a little unnerving until you hit the first jug to get something in. If you get really sketched off the deck, you should be able to fit a red C3 in the finger slot before you hit the first hand rail. but then you are short a hold.
By timtimladiesandgentlemen
Jul 23, 2012

can get by with a #4 C4, but you'll be happier if you have a #5.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 17, 2012

A #4 protects the crux pretty well but a #5 would really make you feel good!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Sep 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I used a #5 and jammed the thing, laybacks make me nervous. Great jamming through the finish.
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Dec 2, 2013

I did the OW section differently than that guy in the photo (didn't layback, either).