Esthesia 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | FA--Grant Calder, John Wald, and Dave Cilley, 7/28/76 FFA--Todd Eastman and Dave Cilley, 4/77 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Nov 26, 2007 |
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Beginning the physical layback of Esthesia.
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Description es-th-sia (n)--"The ability or capacity for sensation or feeling; sensitivity."
Rather ironic, considering this route often leaves a climber's forearms numb and devoid of feeling!
Just to the left of Slim Pickins is the exquisite outside corner of Esthesia. Marked by the 5 to 6 inch wide overhanging corner, this line epitomizes all that is essential for classic Dacks climbing: Desperately pumpy, intimidating climbing with almost impeccable gear (read: a slight runout on pumpy terrain.).
Start this line of strength on the ramp-like feature about 10 feet off the ground. Climb through a series of vertical cracks, surmount a small roof and gain a good rest below the crux second roof.
Place a #5 Camalot as high as you can in the wide crack and punch it through the steep, pumpy, AND unnerving layback with smeary feet. Rumor has it that this section can be climbed as an offwidth, but visual documentation is still at large.
Easier climbing above deposits the climber at the shared chain anchors with Slim Pickins atop the nice, spacious belay ledge.
Location The large outside corner to the left of Slim Pickins.
Protection A loaded rack! Carry stoppers and a small assortment of aliens, plus doubles in everything from a .75 to #3 Camalot, and a #5 for the offwidth.
Mid crux.
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The Esthesia crux being done as an akward offwidth...
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The grim alternative to laybacking...
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The full route
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 29, 2009
| Gerry,
Thanks for the "visual documentation" of the off-width technique required to battle this beast! |
By climberKJ
From: Holderness, NH
Sep 28, 2009
| Get in it. It's good. Can get through crux just fine with a #4. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
May 22, 2010
| For sure it's an OW. I suck at all sorts of cracks and still managed to avoid the layback until the last few feet.
Also, I think the biggest piece we had was a 3.5 |
By Jaysen Henderson
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Yeah, a # 4 BD is a godsend on this thing--so much fun! Just the first 20 feet or so are a little unnerving until you hit the first jug to get something in. If you get really sketched off the deck, you should be able to fit a red C3 in the finger slot before you hit the first hand rail. but then you are short a hold. |
By Alex Mitchell
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 17, 2012
| A #4 protects the crux pretty well but a #5 would really make you feel good! |
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