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Essential knots for climbers

Original Post
Sean Brady · · Spearfish, SD · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 125

I would like to build a compendium here of knots essential for climbers to learn. Links are welcome as well as any other resources.

I couldn't find a similar thread so I thought I'd start one here.

Brian Hudson · · Jasper, TN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 95
Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

^^^^WOW^^^^ nice find. Thanks

Sean Brady · · Spearfish, SD · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 125

Animated knots is a great reference. Of note are:

Figure 8 follow through
Figure 8 on a bight
Double overhand (edk)
Double overhand on a bight
Double fisherman's
Clove hitch
Klemheist
Munter (and munter mule)
Prussik
Water knot

Anything I'm missing?

Brian Hudson · · Jasper, TN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 95

garda hitch (do any of you actually use this?)
bachmann hitch

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674

Maybe not "essential" but nice to know

Inline Figure 8
French Prusik (Autoblock)
Alpine Butterfly
FB Knot (Klemheist variation)
DT-FK Knot (scroll down - basically a "flat double fishermans")

Sean, I think the EDK is a "flat overhand" not a "double overhand".
What's a "double overhand on a bight"?

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Triple granny knot with loop flourish

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
wivanoff wrote:What's a "double overhand on a bight"?
I could be mistaken, but I think Sean was referring to a Bowline on a Bight which sort of starts off as an overhand on a bight (if not, also a useful knot).

Also can't believe the bowline (including variations) hasn't been mentioned.
Dylan Weldin · · Ramstein, DE · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,715

One more I haven't seen included yet is the bunny ears figure 8.

I use this when slapping a rope straight onto an anchor for a fixed rappel, for example. No cordelette needed and only requires 2 carabiners for a 2 bolt anchor

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

fig 8 ...

prussic ...

double fishermans ..

thats about it ... a beginner can get by with those 3 for quite a while

theres plenty more ... but thats when you start doing bigger better stuff ...

one thing that i see as a warning sign is beginners learning all these fancy knots, but not being proficient with tying em when they are cold, tired, hungry, wet, in the dark ....

some do a knot once or twice, without anyone to check em or understanding em.... and think they are all set ...

you dont need a lot of knots ... but you need to know em by heart, in your sleep, while being mauled by a hungry bear

KISS

;)

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883
bearbreeder wrote: while being mauled by a hungry bear KISS ;)
Shit. I forgot what knot to use in this situation. Can you help!
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Greg D wrote: Shit. I forgot what knot to use in this situation. Can you help!
the one that allows you to strangle yourself so you dont feel the bear slowly devouring your tender tasty innards =P
NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

Animated knots for sure!

I really only use:

Figure 8's - on a bight and regular
Grapevine knot
Clove hitch
Munter
Prussik
Overhand knot
Ring Bend knot
Frost knot - if I was making my own etriers

That's all I ever needed really.

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,678
Brian Hudson wrote:garda hitch (do any of you actually use this?) bachmann hitch
I use the garda for hauling daypacks
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

In order of importance:

8 follow thru
8 on a bight
Double Fisherman - Tie-in Backup
Double Fisherman - Stopper
Double/Triple Fisherman - Joining two ropes - AKA "Grapevine"
Flat Overhand - EDK
Water Knot
Clove Hitch
Munter
Mule
Prussik
Autoblock
Alpine butterfly
Double Figure 8 (Bunny Ears)
Bowline on a bite (another bunny ears knot)
Bowline Tie-In Variants
Prussik Variants

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

You guys are kidding ? right ?

figure 8

clove hitch

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

I know! I routinely use about 4 knots all the time.

Once my slings are made, etc. I use but a Fig 8, Clove Hitch, Autoblock and Prussik. That's about it!

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

ESP since this was a beginner thread.. you don't need to know all that other crap now,,, or maybe ever

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

You can do most things with an 8 and a clove hitch.

But not knowing a friction knot and an alpine butterfly when you need them will ruin you. I'll also add munter (half clove hitch). Thing is super handy.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347
john strand wrote:ESP since this was a beginner thread.. you don't need to know all that other crap now,,, or maybe ever
Just because you don't know how to escape a belay doesn't mean it's not necessary to know a friction knot.
Kyle Napierkowski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0
Spri wrote:You can do most things with an 8 and a clove hitch. But not knowing a friction knot and an alpine butterfly when you need them will ruin you. I'll also add munter (half clove hitch). Thing is super handy.
In what situations is an alpine butterfly essential?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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