Essence of Darkness  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Season:  fall/winter Submitted By:  MattL on Apr 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Labeled routes in RHS of Solstice Cave

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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Despite some loose rock near the second bolt, this route is really fun and will probably clean up with more traffic. Bouldery crux down low like its neighbor Solstice, but another powerful section awaits at the third bolt.

Climb up to a horizontal break just beneath the steep roof. Grab some small pockets and make dynamic moves to gain the lip. The second clip is difficult. Heel hook, or campus up some slopers and get established above the roof. Rest on some rather large pockets, and be careful of loose flakes. I pulled a brick sized hold off here (difficulty unchanged). A second powerful crux at the fourth bolt guards the gigantic cave rest. Once recovered, keep it together for the last 15-20 feet of pumpy 11d climbing to the chains.

Location 

Left of eternal sunshine, right of solstice. Look for the steepest part of the lower roof on the rhs of the cave.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - all fixed draws. Stick clipping the first draw is highly recommended. If you don't have an attentive belayer, you may consider stick clipping the second as well.