Espresso 

A tricky section down low seems to be the crux but holding on for the duration is the real crux.

Here is a short movie with Will S doing Espresso in Dec. of '06. QuickTime 7 required.
fishproducts.com/movies/NewJack_espresso.mov

Stemming is OFF!!!!

Sam and I had only been bolting in the area for a few weeks when Mike, Mari and Bruckman came out. We only had a dozen or so routes, mostly 11's and 12's. They asked where the 5.9 warm up was, Expresso was the easiest route bolted at the time, so I pointed to it. A little while later, they came back and stated "That thing is not 5.9!" I kinda chuckled and said, "Well... 5.9+". Expresso remained the easiest route in the area and rated 5.9+ for several years.

Good video

Fun climb. I specifically liked how the flake was bolted into the wall. Almost got an onsight, but underestimated how pumpy it was. I fell right before the anchor :(

Fun climb, nice hand jam rest after the crux. Oh yeah, and stemming is off (x2) despite what all the videos on YouTube show!

Really cool layback move midway up. don't over grip everything and you can avoid the pump.

Pumpier than it looks. Awesome bouldery sequences but I didn't have it dialed through and volunteered a fall at the fourth bolt rather than blow the clip. Well-protected though and good feet.