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Escape From the Pod 
Esplanada 
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Sky Pilot 
Super Mama (Direct) 
Tutu Man 

Esplanada 

5.12c

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
FA: Wendling
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Aug 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Esplanada involves multiple sequential cruxes and varied climbing, never letting off much. Starts off with steeper pocket cranking and ends with techincal crimpy slab climbing. Great moves - once you've read the line correctly.


Location 

Located on the far right section of the 'pretty' rock at the FCR just before the Big Kahuna Pillar. Everything right of the obvious Escape from the Pod (10c) is the 'Grasshopper Wall'. On this wall, starting from the far right (the short and fun 5.11a Little Smokey), Esplanada is the 5th independent line to the left. It begins in a shallow dihedral.


Protection 

8 bolts to anchors.



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By EldoFiend
From: WY
Apr 12, 2010

One of the best sport routes I have ever been on. It is pretty dang hard though.

By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.12d

What!? 12c? are you kidding me? this sets a new standard for FCR sandbags. Dang!

By FC John
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.12d

Felt AT LEAST one (maybe 2) letter grade harder than EKV. Super sequency!

By stefan96
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.12d

Felt hard, almost as hard as hellion.

By Mike Snyder
Jul 17, 2012

For the record, this route was installed, cleaned and tried by Mike Snyder in the Fall of 2001 as the first route put up in the French Cattle Ranch. A broken hold and the onset of winter shut down the send. Matt Wendling did the FA the following Spring apparently unaware that the route was still a project. I would have given it 13a had I been successful in opening it myself. In classic Wendling fashion he snaked it and sandbagged it at 5.12c. The current grade seems to be a compromised consensus.