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Espero Primavera
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Espero Primavera 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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The steep section at the beginning of the first pi...


The crag´s namesake is the most classic moderate at the crag, and likely the most classic at Siurana. Originally a two-pitch route (and still possible as such), this route is now easily climbed in one pitch with a 70meter rope. This is essentially a slab climb, but offers highly featured, interesting rock, making this a bit more enjoyable than some.

From the ledge, head up the steep wall, following a discontinuous left-facing flake. Pass a few cool pockets to the lip of the steep wall, mantle the slab, and work your way up, slightly left, then back right to a large ledge in an alcove. The original first pitch ended here. Clip the anchor, then continue out left from the belay. The crux of p. 2 is encountered just above the first bolt of this pitch: thin moves on small, sharp holds. Move up, trending more left-wards near the top to the anchor.


The route begins from an unnerving, exposed, sloping ledge. From the point where the approach reaches the cliff, scramble right about 15 feet to the arete above a large, sloping ledge. Leave your kit on the flat ledge to the left, and traverse around the corner. This is very exposed & a belay would not be unreasonable. Espero is the first route around the corner, beginning a few feet left of the belay bolt.


Bolts & 2 Bolt Anchors at the belays. Can be done as a one-pitch sport route with a 70m rope.

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The engaging near-vert start of Espero Primavera.
The engaging near-vert start of Espero Primavera.
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