One of Siurana's most popular crags, Espero Primavera is known for its ultra long & technical face climbs and all day sun. Most of the routes here are vertical to slightly slabby, with a couple of steep roofs sprinkled in here and there. This cliff hosts several of Siurana's most acclaimed routes, particularly the epic 35 meter-long orange streak "Mandragora" (5.12c). However, the main attraction is really the high concentration of moderate routes. Few crags at Siurana have so many routes under 5.12, especially not so many as long & engaging as the climbs found here. If its not occupied, a great place to start is the 35m slab of "Espero Primavera" (5.10-) which can be done in two pitches if you don't have a 70m rope, or just for the "fun" of it. There are a total of ~25 routes at this crag, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.9/10a) to 8b (5.13d).
Espero Primavera is the first of the¨Valley Crags¨ on the NW side of the road. From the village of Siurana, drive the road back towards Montsant to a point 3.2 Km form the upper parking lot. There is a small pullout on the NW side of the road. Park here. The Espero Primavera cliff is the obvious cliff pm the NW side of the road. This lot fills up on weekends, so you may need to park along the road. From the parking lot, hike back up the hill towards Siurana for about 100 feet, to an inobvious trail down a steep embankment on the left. Follow the trail down to the bottom of a drainage, then steeply up the other side. The trail wanders a short distance before reaching the crag.
7 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Espero Primavera
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Espero Primavera:
Espero Primavera 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 115'
Marieta de L'ull Viu 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 90'
Tan San Fot 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 90'
Camparos Toca el Dos 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 90'
Se Miapaga La Baldufa 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 90'
Remena Nena 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 90'
Mandragora 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Featured Route For Espero Primavera
Remena Nena 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a International : Spain : ... : Espero Primavera
One of the classic technical slab climbs of Siurana, Remena Nena is a cerebral outing on excellent multi-colored stone. The darker rock here bakes in the sun, so come on a cloudy day or bring loads of chalk. The line weaves radically, so keep an open mind when route-finding. The crux involves a long reach which may make this feel more difficult for shorties. Show the Euro fun boys what´s what by cruising the initial left-facing corner with bomber fingerlocks. Mount the slab, then head pretty...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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