BETA PHOTO: Topo with some key routes marked.
One of Siurana's most popular crags, Espero Primavera is known for its ultra long & technical face climbs and all day sun. Most of the routes here are vertical to slightly slabby, with a couple of steep roofs sprinkled in here and there. This cliff hosts several of Siurana's most acclaimed routes, particularly the epic 35 meter-long orange streak "Mandragora" (5.12c). However, the main attraction is really the high concentration of moderate routes. Few crags at Siurana have so many routes under 5.12, especially not so many as long & engaging as the climbs found here. If its not occupied, a great place to start is the 35m slab of "Espero Primavera" (5.10-) which can be done in two pitches if you don't have a 70m rope, or just for the "fun" of it. There are a total of ~25 routes at this crag, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.9/10a) to 8b (5.13d).
The crag is not actually sunny all day, but it will seem like that if you're a late riser. The crag does get shade in the early morning, until around 11am. After that, virtually every route bakes in the sun all day. If you have your eyes set on one of the classic hard lines, get up early or come on a cloudy day. Another decent shade option is to head for the four quality 5.11s at the far left end of the wall. These routes have a nice grove of trees at the base that provide relief at least for the belayer.
Espero Primavera is the first of the¨Valley Crags¨ on the NW side of the road. From the village of Siurana, drive the road back towards Montsant to a point 3.2 Km form the upper parking lot. There is a small pullout on the NW side of the road. Park here. The Espero Primavera cliff is the obvious cliff pm the NW side of the road. This lot fills up on weekends, so you may need to park along the road. From the parking lot, hike back up the hill towards Siurana for about 100 feet, to an inobvious trail down a steep embankment on the left. Follow the trail down to the bottom of a drainage, then steeply up the other side. The trail wanders a short distance before reaching the crag.
Weather station 14.4 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Espero Primavera
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Espero Primavera:
Mandragora 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Featured Route For Espero Primavera
Espero Primavera 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Europe
: ... : Espero Primavera
The crag´s namesake is the most classic moderate at the crag, and likely the most classic at Siurana. Originally a two-pitch route (and still possible as such), this route is now easily climbed in one pitch with a 70meter rope. This is essentially a slab climb, but offers highly featured, interesting rock, making this a bit more enjoyable than some. From the ledge, head up the steep wall, following a discontinuous left-facing flake. Pass a few cool pockets to the lip of the steep wall, mantle...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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Climbers enjoying a pair of good moderates at the ...