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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: ferrells on Jun 7, 2006
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THIS ROUTE HAS BEEN CHOPPED, thankfully. I'll leave this for historical reasons.

In general, I would usually rather be climbing even the worst routes than not climbing at all. ESP, however, is so bad that it is actually worse to be climbing it than to not be climbing at all. I've been an obsessive, passionate climber for almost ten years, and when I got down from this route, I said aloud, "I don't know if I ever want to climb again." It was bad enough that, for a moment, the entire lifestyle and activity felt like a mistake. Luckily, I shook the sensation off, but the aftertaste remained.
Before I was assigned the route, I listed a few detractors below in the comments. With sandy chossiness, ugly graffiti, dwarfish length, awkward moves, rusty bolts, dangerous anchors, awful position, and seepage, this route has it all. Alternatively, you might consider the length to be a plus - at least it doesn't last all that long. Woe be to Red Wing and Minnesota, that they harbor this route.



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By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 29, 2009

Truly Abysmal.

After living at Smith for a couple of years, I look back now at routes like this (and others like user friendly), and wonder why someone doesn't chop it.

It wouldn't survive at most areas in the west, and degrades the overall value of the crag. There are quite a lot of great routes at Red Wing, but this isn't one of them. It has going for it:
1)Bad Position - It's like climbing in a guano-soaked sweat sock.
2)Crumbly, Miserable Rock
3)Spray Paint at the Bottom
4)Awkward Moves on Sandy Edges
5)Rusty as Crap Bolts

Someone put it out of its misery.

By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Dec 29, 2009

Yes this climb truly blows. However, it's my opinion that for every Ying there is a Yang. For every Living All Over Me there is an E.S.P. to counter it. A shame, but is it? To appreciate the 4 star climbs must there not be a bomb or two?

By Kris Gorny
May 17, 2010

Now I'm curious about this monstrocity...

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 27, 2011

Thanks to whoever chopped this route!

By Ted Kryzer
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 4, 2012

Dude i was totally wanting to climb this just to see how bad it was.