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> Shady Lane West
Eso No Se Hace
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 27
votes
Routes in Shady Lane West
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Chronic Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eso No Se Hace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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First Strike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free Range Chook T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great Escape T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Infrared T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keg Stand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Party Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prism Roof S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That's What She Said T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ultraviolet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | R. Dedinas, M. Dedinas, D. Tower |
| Page Views: | 2,501 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Miller on Jun 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
Power up on jugs to the first bolt. A thin crimp and creative footwork will get you through the crux at the second bolt. Above, enjoy the stellar finger crack.
Mantle onto the ledge at the end of the finger crack then join Chronic Relief, clipping the last 2 bolts of that route to the chains.
Mantle onto the ledge at the end of the finger crack then join Chronic Relief, clipping the last 2 bolts of that route to the chains.
Location
This route is easily identified by the zigzagging finger crack and the 2 bolts at the start. Rappel from the chains on Chronic Relief.
Protection
4 bolts (2 at the start and 2 on the finish of Chronic Relief) plus gear. Small cams and wires protect the finger crack. One #2 Camalot is nice to have to protect the mantle move at the top of the crack, but otherwise nothing bigger than .5" is needed.
For those not up for leading it, it is easy to lead Chronic Relief and toprope this route using a cam or two as a directional.
For those not up for leading it, it is easy to lead Chronic Relief and toprope this route using a cam or two as a directional.
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