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Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.
Eschar starts from the left end of the ledge, and moves up and left. It feels a little stiff for 5.4, but protects well.
Neale at the base of his second trad lead
Neale getting some good gear in after the start
|By Steve Powell|
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 2, 2003
as I recall, this crack is flaring at the bottom. it may not be the best crack to lead for the beginning climber.
|By Michael D. Thompson|
May 2, 2003
Well having recently led this route (4/19/03), I do have to agree that it was a bit stiff for a 5.4; however, I don't know where the idea that it protects well came from. I had a loaded rack and I couldn't get a piece that I could call bomber at/before the crux, that bothered me a bit. I don't know, maybe the fact that it was about 7:00 am and I hadn't had any coffee yet made me feel that way. All said and done, it's a fun route, though I wouldn't recommend it to someone that would be considering it for their first trad lead.
From: Westminster, CO
Oct 27, 2003
Sep 8, 2006
Fun beginner solo.
|By Linnea Williams|
Nov 23, 2006
I just lead this as my first gear lead and had no problem protecting it, except for the first little section after the shelf. At that point you can get a kind of crappy nut in some features to the left of the crack that gives some psychological protection, if nothing else.
|By Mark L|
Apr 30, 2007
I think this is a tough climb to introduce people to climbing on - so its probably harder than a 5.4 but then most things on trashcan are harder than their rating.
Decent beginner lead although you cant necessarily sew it up, and there is a crux rattely right hand jam with poor feet about 2/3 up before getting onto easier face that can probably stress out a beginning leader.
|By Gary Schenk|
Mar 3, 2008
Kind of awkward transitioning into the crack. One of the better 4s in the park.
|By Joe M|
From: Rapid City, SD
Jan 11, 2009
I found it difficult to get a good piece in until I got to the horizontal crack. Otherwise an ok clmb. Great fist jams up high!
Feb 17, 2010
If you can manage the first moves to get onto the low shelf, you'll be fine. The route takes large cams fine (save some for the anchor!).
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 9, 2010
Decent climb, and no problems protecting it. Standard rack of stoppers. Could be a bit stiff for a 4; maybe a 5.
Nov 11, 2010
I agree.The jams and foot placements in that right hand crack up top seemed harder than 5.4
|By Rodger Raubach|
Apr 12, 2011
I wanted to do this route again last week, but it seems to be very popular and was occupied most of the weekend. It is a very pleasant , easy lead.
Nov 8, 2011
Left leaning and rattly right hand jam at the crux. Used a #4 Friend around there. Otherwise mediocre climb.
|By Patrick Sanan|
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 9, 2011
I had a lot of fun on this. I would say it is indeed in the 5.4 - 5.5 range but that rating assumes you can do fist jams - a great place to practice those! Protection wasn't completely trivial but I mostly found it when I needed it.
|By Eddie Miro|
Dec 3, 2012
I thought the start was the toughest move. The rest was fun but felt a little greasy.