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Road Cut, The
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Escargot 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Scanell
Page Views: 587
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jun 30, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: There is also another bolt on the slab in the midd...

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Description 

The furthest left climb on the road cut, Escargot climbs up a pocketed face facing north, then after reaching a ledge, you climb up an east facing face with fewer features.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, use a sling on the 3rd bolt to reduce rope drag. Carville's book doesn't mention the first 3 bolts, but they're there.You could probably use cam placements in the numerous pockets to protect yourself as well.



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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Kind of a rules problem according to Paul (RIP, bro). Stay on the arete and out of the left crack at top for the full value...

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Aug 22, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Funky pocket climbing on granite. Pity about the ledge at the midway point.