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Escape to Queen Mountain
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Squirrel Rock
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Escape to Queen Mountain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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No Nuts Needed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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One Nut Needed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Searching for Nuts S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Tony Sartin, November 1995 |
| Page Views: | 1,285 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Apr 4, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arête of the formation.
This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.
This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.
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