Escape to Queen Mountain  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Kevin Daniels & Tony Sartin Submitted By:  Richard Shore on Apr 5, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Escape to Queen Mountain

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Description 

This fantastic line is actually located on a long buttress of rock about 50 yards to the east of Squirrel Rock/Upper Walt's Rock. The route more-or-less follows the blunt southern arête of the formation.

This long and varied pitch starts with a finger crack followed by a short face crux past a bolt. A right-facing corner is then gained, eventually stepping out right onto airy and exposed face past 3 more bolts on the final headwall. There is some loose stuff on the upper half, probably due to lack of traffic. Adequately protected and a worthy tick. Easily 3/4 stars.

Location 

On a separate buttress of rock to the east of Squirrel Rock and Upper Walt's. Rappel from the north side of the formation from bolts with a single rope.

Protection 

4 bolts, gear from fingers to 2". A single set of cams should suffice. Gear anchor, with bolted rappel station on the north side of the rock.

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Escape to Queen Mountain, 5.10a

E.to Q.M.