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The Black Wall
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Ant Farm, The 
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Escape Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: I doubt it
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: rob bauer on Mar 28, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: On the Escape, 8-21-09.

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This is way left of the rap. Let's say you bail off Road Warrior. Maybe you wonder whether that wall to the left had a way up and out while others are working it out on your primary objective? Well, it goes without too much trouble, I survived it just fine, no harder than 5.9 on so-so rock. It has 2 long pitches and a short one out and then up to your packs.


This lies way up left of the rap, but not as far as the nasty couloir at the top of the "gully". On the same wall proper, maybe 10 to 30 feet right of the obvious, wet corner, head up and right, heading toward a left-facing, overhanging, left-leaning, crack/squeeze chimney. There is a good belay on top then a short pitch to the top. It is maybe 2.3 pitches with a 165' rope.



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