Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,662 total · 16/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 10, 2015
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

I thought this pretty "old school" 5.5, but used that rating since it came from the current guidebook (Grant Simmons, 2014) whose ratings are supposed to be "the grades that the climbing community has settled on." However, even the guidebook calls the climb "stout" !

P1 - Climb the Upper Slabs, usually accomplished on the lead via the large right facing corner at the left edge of the upper slabs, perhaps stepping out onto the face near the top, bolted anchor. 50 ft 5.3-5.4

P2 - Move left and climb the front of the low angled buttress of Gargoyle. Step up into the corner just below the Gargoyle crack (protect, with a long sling) and then I stepped down* and right to the steep wall on the right. Up this on good holds to the final move, have a small wire nut to protect. 70-80 ft I thought about 5.6+; my shorter companion (* who stayed low) thought 5.7.

Rap off double bolt anchor

Protection Suggest change

Usual rack and at least one long sling, small wire nut / "Stopper" for top move.

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