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Bernard Vachon in the crux dihedral of Escape Arti...
Escape Artist is a great, prominent natural line, acclaimed as one of the best routes in the Black Canyon. The rock quality is for the most part quite good though there is some funky pegmatite in the long corner system. The wild (but well-protected) traverse pitch is a Black Canyon classic. Escape Artist is a better route than either Maiden Voyage or Leisure climb, if you're looking for a reasonable length route in the 5.9 range, but it is much more sustained than either of those routes.
The route is on the Escape Artist Buttress, next to Comic Relief, with which it shares the final 400 feet. Descend the SOB Draw, to the second major buttress on the left. The buttress is separated from it's uphill neighbor (Casual Buttress) by a long, dark, narrow cleft.
Scope the route before scrambling to the base. There are two obvious features: a long, left-diagonaling crack low down (the Vector), followed by a long LF corner system on the left edge of the buttress. Walk out onto a platform below the buttress, and scramble over/around a short cliff, 4th class, to the center of the buttress.
The first pitch is identified by two parallel, left arching finger/hand cracks which reach the Vector. Climb moderate rock up into the right of these, and follow it (excellent 5.9) to a belay under an overhang where it intersects the Vector. Depending on how high you scramble, a 60m rope may be necessary, or do this in two pitches.
P2-Follow the Vector left to it's end at an excellent belay ledge. Easy at first, but then wild 5.9 above an overhang.
P3-Follow the long dihedral (route crux near the top of the pitch), sustained, interesting climbing with good rests. The pitch is a little longer than fifty meters, so bring a long rope. If simul-climbing 10 feet or so, neither climber will be in the midst of 5.9 moves. The best belay is with a piton out left, just before the corner system jogs right.
P4-Continue up thin cracks in the right wall of the corner and pull onto a huge sloping ledge, 5.8.
P5-Climb the obvious 5.9 corner. It looks a little mungy but offers quite nice jamming and stemming. Stretch up and right to a belay ledge on the summit slabs. Variation: climb the beautiful, splitter Lightning Bolt Crack, a 5.11 on the overhanging right wall of the corner, to the same belay area.
P6-7 Continue up the slab to the summit of the buttress, on easy to moderate 5th class. We simul-climbed, but there are definitely some loose spots so this may not be advisable if another party is below you. On the other hand if you don't start simul-climbing, they probably will. Be careful with your rope/hands/feet no matter how you do it.
Trend center-left on the slab (going right, as the new Black Canyon guidebook recommends, leads to annoying climbing along a ridge). There are two sets of rappel slings about 25 feet apart, the left-hand one gets you down with a 60m rope (rappel under the tunnel created by a chockstone). Make sure to go up the gully which leads north--much easier than it looks. Apparently, the other obvious gully (which leads more or less east) eventually requires more rock climbing. The campground is not far from the top of the gully.
Bring a standard rack with RPs or HBs, stoppers, small cams, and doubles of Friends to #3. Bring a #3.5 Friend. There are no notable run-outs, but the crux pitch has some tricky pro and mandatory 5.9 climbing.
Bernard again in the crux pitch of Escape Artist.
On the SOB gully approach. Escape Artist is the wa...
Seconding the first pitch, 5.9 Sweet!
Carl Cudworth cleaning the crux on the Vector
Getting near the top of the crux pitch.
Mike Amato mantling out onto the start of the Vect...
Mike Amato tackling the steep 5.9 corner on the fi...
Christa Cline leading out on the fourth pitch.
Matt Bynum following the Vector Traverse.
This photo of the usual first pitch should clear u...
Mark Sokol seconding up to the start of the Vector...
The very end of the Vector Traverse. (Photo taken ...
Starting lightning bolt crack. (Photo by Jeff Wide...
In the meat of lightning bolt crack. (Photo by Jef...
1st real pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Route as seen from the approach.
Start of the vector traverse.
|Comments on Escape Artist
|By Bryson Slothower|
Nov 19, 2001
The new book suggests that after rapping from the top of the route it is possible to climb a few more pitches on the climbers left hand side of the gully heading north. Anyone done these pitches? Rating? Quality? it looks good.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 5, 2001
You must be thining of the gully that heads east. The left side of the north gully is a sheer overhanging wall. After we did Escape Artist, I talked to a guy in the campground who said that, instead of rappelling, they did a short down-climb from the very high point of the buttress (climber's right, from the rappels), then climbed a few nice easy pitches more or less straight east to the campground. That would be on the climber's right of the east-heading gully, to keep things straight.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2002
The new guidebook upgrades this to .10-, but I am not sure why, particularly when compared with other .10 pitches I have done in the Black. Also, the topo shows the crux low in the dihedral, but it is obviously at the top. The lower section is actually pretty easy.
|By Kreighton Bieger|
Jun 11, 2002
This route is so good! Given how good the majority of the rock is, it is apparently not too Black Canyon-esque, but it is a stellar route.
Scramble up high, as Charles suggested, and the first two pitches go easily in about 185 feet. The second pitch, the Vector Traverse, is possibly the best pitch of 5.9 I've ever done! It is just so good!! Lots of fingers to small hands pieces protect the pitch (#3-#4 Metolius, .5-.75 Camalot, etc), and the exit is spicy!
The crux pitch felt like hard 9 or 10a, following. The next pitch is no giveaway at 5.7, and the final 5.9 pitch felt like 9+ to me. The leader is very committed on this pitch, as an early fall would likely land him or her on the sloping ledge below, but the jams are solid, and there is good gear.
Can't say enough good things about this route!
|By aaron voreis|
Apr 23, 2003
Strongly reccomended route but probably not the best intro to the black for 5.9 leaders. Don't be deceived by only 5 serious pitches as they are very long and strenous and there is a lot of extra easy climbing. The route description above is much better than the one in the guidebook.
One 60m rope is AOK! Bring lots of .5 and .4 Camalots...
The 5.7 arete mentioned as an option in the guide book instead of the 5.9+ dihedral or lightning bolt crack is junk. Bad rock, Bad pro, Scary not Spicy. Not recommended.
You can do the whole top in one pitch after the 5.9+ next to lightning bolt. Traverse right to a good belay on a nice ledge. From there climb one 190 foot pitch on an obvious crack in the center of the wall to another ledge, we had to simu-climb the last 10 feet. When your 2nd gets there, unrope and traverse accross left on an obvious and easy ledge until you see a bunch of grassy and bushy third class. Climb this for awhile staying left until you see a horn with a bunch of slings on it. Rappel! Woo Hoo! Climb the south facing gully out.
|By David Conlin|
Sep 29, 2003
As my first black canyon climb, I give this 2 or 2.5 stars. It was definitely worth doing, but I just don't think it was top-notch.
We had problems linking the first two pitches up. Came up about 30 feet short. Looking at the photo, we started further right, where Comic Relief starts. To us, the pedastal from atop which we started seemed the obvious high point for scrambling. We climbed a nice 5.9 lie-back hand/finger crack up into the corner and then angled left along the vector, diverging from Comic Relief. The photo makes it look like we should have started further left and climbed the face, rather than the corner. Maybe this strategy would have let us go all the way to the 2nd belay in one pitch, but what we did was worth climbing, too.
Also, beware the 2-bolt anchor about 7 feet above the vector, 20 -25 feet before it ends. We were lured up onto this, which requires some 5.8-5.9 face climbing on slopers for a few feet (hard to reverse). Above this, discontinuous cracks/flakes lead up to the left side of the triangular roof, where it may rejoin Escape Artist. Anyway, we decided against climbing into unknown territory and got back on route. To make a long story shorter, we tried to link the first two pitches into one, and ended up doing it in three!!! After that, things went a little smoother...
Anyone know anything about the above variation?
We took the standard top out, rappelled into the gully and climbed the Northward gully, which is indeed easier than it looks from across the way. Sounds like it would be possible to climb all the way to the top of the formation, downclimb or rappel(?) to a saddle and take some easier rock climbing to the rim. All this is to the right of the normal top-out. This would be appealing if one isn't hard-pressed for time (which you shouldn't be-its not that long of a route, even with our route-finding fiasco on the vector) and would avoid the gully slog. I will try that when I do Comic Relief and keep y'all posted if it is indeed recommended.
The Black definitely lives up to its rep -- sustained climbing in a stellar setting.
Sustained, but I don't think it warrants the 10- that the guidebook gives it. Stellar climbing on positive holds with frequent rests and good gear...5.9+
Added a new cord to the rappel anchor at the top-out.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 11, 2004
I made the same mistake David made. When you get to the top of the ledge, the sweet finger crack just beckons to be climbed. We then had to thrutch through a desparate slot to finish up the traverse. An easy mistake to make.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 13, 2004
The two bolts above Escape Artist are the second belay on Stand Up Comic(III, 11+). It starts on the left hand side of the buttress and climbs left out a very obvious roof, aqnd up a short dihedral. Second pitch comes up directly to the bolts with some fun face climbing (5.11, but can aid the hardest part) , the Third pitch climbs the flakes to the triangular roof and goes right (11+) to join the Comic Relief variation to Lightning Bolt Ledge. At the ledge it goes back right and up a finger to hand crack on the arete (5.10). There is a bolt at the bottom to the Finger Crack, that is not all that nessessary, however, when I lead it, there was a rather large flake that is no longer there, and so it was not protectable.
The climbing is fun and slightly harder than most routes on this wall, but still an easy day. Putting in the route I thought the triangular roof may have been 12-, but most of my guesses are later downrated so it will probably end up at 11+ , either way its still a nice warmup route.
Also, after the rapple off of the buttress, you can immediately climb the wall behind you and stay on the arete all of the way to the top. No gully at all.
|By Ken Heiser|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2004
I climbed this route yesterday with Dave Holliday. This was my first route in the Black Canyon. I really enjoyed this climb. I thought the Vector traverse was really neat and very intimidating and scary despite perfect protection. What I remember is going left on the ramp and it getting thinner and thinner till it looked like it would not go at all, then holds appeared for the wild moves at the end that I found to be very awkward and strenuous. I thought the crux pitch was one of the best pitched of its grade I have ever done. Not having a comparison of other Black Canyon routes I gave this a 10a, because I believe the crux is as hard as any of the Eldo 10a's I have done recently. So, overall I found the route to be easy to get to very sustained in difficulty and highly enjoyable. This took us about 8 hours from campground to campground.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 10, 2004
After the crux dihedral it's really easy to traverse right to do the comic relief corner which is really good. Ithink I've done this route twice now and have never don the original finish because it look like a dangerous loose pile.
|By Jim Amidon|
Sep 10, 2004
As is the case with "The Black," there is only a limited amount of information about the routes available and without taking the photo posted here when you are at the base of these two climbs well it's not totally clear. Like a lot of routes, you figure some of it out after you have done it. We did the "Vector Traverse" starting from Comic Relief. It makes for a LONG pitch and a long traverse but you can do it with a 60m rope and a double rack. I didn't have much left on my rack when I got to the belay, but it was one of the longest, 190' or more, pitches I've strung together while going along a traverse. Superb, slightly sustained, but it does give you good rests and places to figure out your next moves. Would I do it like that again, probably not, but it sure was fun !!!!!
|By Patrick Vernon|
Sep 19, 2004
We did this route yesterday as a group of three, and I'd have to say it was great! Extremely sustained for a route of this length, with hard 5.9 600 feet above the river! Also, the 5.easy slab above was incredible with the sun setting and nearly 1000 feet of exposure (atleast it felt like it...) We got a late start because of slower parties, and ended up roping up at 1:00, so we got rained on a few times, no big deal though. Just thought I'd add that this was a great first route in the Black, the whole thing protects really well. BUT, a word of advice: don't start up this route if anyone is above you. In an hour of watching the party ahead of us, they dropped gear and knocked a large size rock loose from the third pitch. Later, another huge rockfall took place, the whole canyon must have heard it, and I assume it was this same party. Last thing: the gully out (the north one) was probably the most dangerous part of the day. It is loose, so ropping up is probably more of a risk than not, but if a hold breaks on the 4th class scramble (definitely a possibility) the tumble isn't a good one at all. I'd be interested in some of the new routes out of this gully mentioned above.
|By Michael Amato|
Sep 20, 2004
Christa Cline and I climbed this route on 9/18/2004, what a fantastic route... long, technical, exciting, sustained, good pro, and quite "unusual" in some spots as well. I agree with Ken above as far as the route's difficulty and feel that an overall "Eldo 10a" rating is accurate. Also, we climbed Maiden Voyage, 5.9 the day before and Escape Artist is significantly more difficult, significantly more committing and significantly more sustained.
We were the second party on the route. AC/Patrick- if you were the three-person party, we were right above you. For what it's worth, we did not drop rocks on you. The party above us got off-route on the fourth pitch, got onto the loose stuff to the left and eventually retreated back down over 50 ft. to get back on route. I believe this is when the rock fall you mention occurred, though the huge rock fall you mention was not caused by them or anyone else on this route. We heard it, too - it seemed to be somewhere off left (or was that the echo?). It scared the hell out of us as well. I sure hope nobody was below that one.
We found the north-leading exit gully to be quite straight-forward. By showing the amount of care and attention appropriate for any third and fourth class scrambling, we were quite easily able to avoid dislodging any loose rock or breaking any holds. However, I surely wouldn't want to be below any other parties in this gully. As usual, the best advice is to get an early start if you want to be the ones on top.
|By Christa Cline|
Sep 20, 2004
Great route, very sustained, strenuous, and steep many times. The Vector Traverse certainly requires some nerves of steel in my book, I needed those just to follow the pitch. Though the feet surprisingly seemed to find decent placements all along, it was overall very awkward and very exposed and strenuous. The third and fifth (5.9 corner) pitch were also very challenging, steep and also very sustained but solid. Excellent climbing.
Route finding was quite easy and straight forward up to the point of locating the rap stations that were supposed to get you to the gully. My partner had a good hunch when he set up belay 80 feet short of the summit at the last tree (juniper) before the summit and we decided to head left (facing the rock) around the corner of the summit rock in search of the descent route. Going that way, choose the first rappel slings, i.e. the slings closer to the north leading gully you eventually will climb out of. The rappel will get you all the way down to the base of the exit gully. If you chose the second set of rap slings away from the exist gully you will have to downclimb to the base of the exit gully which is certainly manageable though loose. The actuall exit gully was solid, very steep but aside from some loose stuff which is to be expected in any gully anywhere there were plenty of solid holds to choose from all the way up.
As with any trad route, be it in an alpine setting or in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, there always is potential of rock fall with parties above you. There is no avoiding that. Overall, I thought Escape Artist has a lot less potential of rock fall as compared to many popular routes in Eldo. Getting an early start and being first on a route is the only way to avoid potential rock fall from parties above you.
From: Boulder, CO
May 2, 2006
Does anyone know anything about the left-hand of the two cracks leading to The Vector? I just did this route for the second time over the weekend and tried that option. It's really good, a bit thinner than the right-hand crack. The crux is at the top and pinches off a bit like the Comic Relief crux does. Probably not as hard though. It should be recommended as another option.
Jul 9, 2007
Unless you love rotten rock, stay away from the corner on the 4th pitch. It may look like the more obvious line, but at least one serious fall has taken place here and my partner was lucky to escape himself. Instead, look on the face to the right for two parallel cracks and follow these up to the big ledge.
|By Lee Jenkins|
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
May 7, 2009
There is a fixed #3 BD Camalot (Blue) ~ 30' before the end of the Vector. Take some tools!
|By luca moz|
Sep 8, 2009
Did the vector traverse from the belay of Comic Relief: super 200 feet pitch!
|By Bosier Parsons|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 28, 2009
Climbed this yesterday, and a 70m rope from the right rappel anchor at the top will leave you just three feet shy of the bottom of the gully with an easy step down from the end of your rope.
|By Will Anglin|
From: Sykesville, MD
May 22, 2010
A good climb but definitely not 4 stars. The Vector Traverse gets really hyped up, and while it does get a bit exposed near the end there is solid gear throughout and the moves never get very difficult, just more awkward. After The Vector, the rock quality really drops off and the next 3 pitches involve solid, but grungy peg climbing. Overall though, it is a good route for a hot day since you can pretty much stay in the shade all day till the top out slab.
|By tom bohanon|
Jun 14, 2011
Climbed this last weekend with Dave Meyer. A very good route with good pro the whole way...3 stars, in my opinion. Did not need RPs or a #3.5 or 4 Camalot. I think the best rappel is far to climber's left from the summit, down the ridge. It's an easy 4th class downclimb of about 20-30 meters to good anchors that drops you right at the base of the exit gully. A 60 meter rope was fine.
Sep 19, 2012
This is the route to avoid the north gully exit: The Escape.