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Elevation: 5,291 ft
GPS: 38.68025, -108.31227
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Shared By: John Peterson on Jan 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are both closed to climbing DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

RAIN, WET ROCK: The sandstone in Escalante Canyon is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Gear placement in wet sandstone also poses a safety concern. Please wait for the rock to dry prior to climbing.

Escalante Canyon is Colorado's version of Indian Creek, the way it used to be. The rock isn't as extensive or solid, but the climbs are sweet.

The rock is sandstone, similar to that in Colorado National Monument which is only about 25 miles away. Approaches are short and crowds are minimal. There is climbing on both sides of the canyon but most of the routes are on the south-facing side. Some areas are on private property. The ranch owner has been open to climbing so long as there are not large groups. When in doubt, ask one of the ranch hands.

The only published guide to the area is in Eric Bjornstad's original Desert Rock Book which is out of print. This underlines the fact that the area has great history that precedes many of the bolting ethics in play today that have taken areas such as Indian Creek by storm.

Many of the routes and/or pitches here do not have bolted anchors. In most cases, this was a conscious decision by the first ascentionists to leave no trace. Please respect the wishes of these pioneers when considering installation of fixed hardware.

If the case arises that the climb seems to hard or unlikely to go to the rim, it is always possible to rap in from the top to retrieve gear to avoid bolting. In many areas, there are evidence of bolting and bolt removal where someone assumed a line was unclimbed and set anchors where in fact there were anchors a short distance higher and out of view.

It should be stressed that these are crack climbs, but Escalante is not Indian Creek. Please respect the history of the area.

CAMPING: Suggest change

There are many different areas to camp in the canyon. Please do not camp at the public pullout for The Potholes. A few of the main locations are on the left if going up canyon at mileage of 5 and 5.5 from the Cabin at Cabin wall. Take heed to the private property signs. Most camping areas have a manageable road established and do NOT have no camping allowed signs in front of them.

Getting There

Suggest change
Escalante Canyon is about 20 miles south of Grand Junction. The road is well marked and branches off US 50 between milepost 59 and 60, about 10 miles northwest of Delta. From the junction, it is about 12 miles of dirt road to the climbing area. The road drops down and crosses the Gunnison River and then follows Escalante Creek up to the climbing area. The main area is just after you enter public land, just past the cabin on the right. Free camping is available. There is a popular swimming area just past the climbing. The approaches are 5 - 10 minutes from the road.

A few words about bolting here:

Suggest change
In many cases, it is hard to see the anchors of routes, and before placing bolts, you should climb as close to the rim as possible. Most of the lines have been climbed, especially in the main areas. Please use caution, and when in doubt, rap down from the top to retrieve gear and/or possibly view where the anchors are. Please respect the routes which were done before and avoid placing bolts on established lines.

If bolting must be done, it is important that you camouflage the anchors. Not only is it an eye sore if you do not camo them, but there has been a long history of cliffs being shot up because there were targets on them (shiny bolts day-glow webbing). It's western out there.

116 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Escalante Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 149
Interiors
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 177
Key Hole
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 140
Willy's Hand Jive
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 47
Beside the Pillar
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 134
S Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 66
Zombie Woof (submitted as Big Ha…
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 46
Make The Grade
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 100
The Curve
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 49
Zig-Zag
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 26
Supermank of the Desert
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 82
Rednekk Justus
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 49
Fork It (HVS)
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 37
Passion for Pumping aka Corner P…
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Green Cam Lieback (aka Pasta Mak…
Trad
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
 4
The Frank Zappa Appreciation Soc…
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Interiors Interiors Wall Area
 149
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Key Hole Interiors Wall Area
 177
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Willy's Hand Jive Island aka Left side…
 140
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Beside the Pillar Zappa Wall
 47
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
S Crack Cabin Wall
 134
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Zombie Woof (submitted as B… Zappa Wall
 66
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Make The Grade Interiors Wall Area
 46
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Curve Zappa Wall
 100
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Zig-Zag Zappa Wall
 49
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Supermank of the Desert Interiors Wall Area
 26
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Rednekk Justus Cabin Wall
 82
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Fork It (HVS) Zappa Wall
 49
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Passion for Pumping aka Cor… Cabin Wall
 37
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Green Cam Lieback (aka Past… Zappa Wall
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Frank Zappa Appreciatio… Zappa Wall
 4
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 Trad
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