This long, varied, and challenging pitch climbs the south side of Fin 1, following the crack and corner line left of Ghetto Cruiser. A hard move over an overhang at the low point of Fin 1 gains a fun finger and hand crack. Step left at the end of the crack and climb a slab to the base of an overhang with an old piton anchor. Clip this with a very long sling, step back right, and stem a shallow corner and ramp. Mantel onto a good hold at the top of the ramp, place small to medium cams in a bomber slot, then do a hard move up and left, along a square-cut corner, to reach good wires and the top of the prominent flake system. Hand-traverse the wide flakes to finish in the chimney slot of Ghetto Cruiser.
This route has many 5.9 and 5.10 moves, with mostly good pro. There are short run-outs on the slab below the roof, on the upper ramp, and on the crux above the end of the ramp.
A full Eldo rack, with emphasis on small cams and small wires, including RPs, plus at least one big piece (No. 3 to 4 Camalot) for the final flakes. A blue Alien or equivalent is very useful in the ramp section. Be careful to adequately extend any runners placed left of the main line or under roofs to reduce rope drag and prevent any danger from sharp edges. Double ropes might be useful.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
A very good climb that needed a little more cleaning. I inadvertently gave it just that. A handhold snapped and in the course of trying to recover my balance, I sheared off a delicate foothold & took a pretty good fall. Joseffa broke a loose one off following, too. The resulting edges are better than the originals, and this was well below the crux, so the grade was not effected.
The worst pro on the route is a "good" #1 RP next to a blue Alien in a so-so horizontal. This protects against what might otherwise be a long and dangerous fall from the crux. Then a 1.5-2" cam may be placed in the middle of the crux, which I actually found to be a bit powerful, but on good enough holds so as to be easier than the climbing down lower where the less comforting gear was.
After pulling the last roof/bulge (big moves on good holds) you get run-out quite a bit unless you take a #4 Camalot for behind the big flake up top. Beware that if you climb the flake on the outside (lie-back style) that the top right section of it is detached, so don't pull too had unless you want to take a big fall.
Past the flake you can run it clear to the top for a nearly 200' single pitch.
One of the best things about it is its 'improbability' as the book puts it. The climb keeps looking like it will get very hard or impossible, but at each critical juncture gives you just enough of something to keep it 5.10.
Overall, the route was modestly rated for quality by the FA party. It is fun moves on interesting rock and deserves at least 3 stars.