Errant Edge 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Ruckman Bros. |
| Submitted By: | Sir Camsalot on Mar 19, 2008 |
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Durf on the Errant Edge Courtesy of Troy Anderson...
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Description Follows three bolts up chicken heads and small crystals on the right side of the Lizard Head wall. Spicy.
Location Right of Squeeze My Lemon on the Lizard Head Wall.
Protection Some pro available between the three bolts.
Follows three bolts up the right side with some pr...
| The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
| Stringing along on knob central.
| BETA PHOTO: At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
| BETA PHOTO: Between the first and second bolt.
| BETA PHOTO: Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Er...
| BETA PHOTO: Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top ...
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By Sir Camsalot From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut Mar 19, 2008
| I only Tr'd this but will be back soon for the lead. A fall getting to the second bolt would put you in the trees. |
By tenesmus Mar 19, 2008
| no it won't. Its fine and the climbing right there is nicely featured. This actually starts around the corner in the crack for a move or two before pulling onto the lip. Starting directly under the bolts onto that slab ramp feels kinda like .11a. There is a small cam placement for the juggy (honestly!) runnout to the anchors. |
By Sir Camsalot From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut Mar 19, 2008
| ah...I thought it started at that right trending ramp just right of Squeeze My Lemon. Fun shizz either way. |
By Arie From: Smog Lake City, Utah Mar 20, 2008 rating: 5.10- PG13
| Wow, one of my favorite slabbin' craggin' leads in LCC. The short rightward trend above bolt 2 (or 3?) sports some wickedness and the final crack provides some welcome forgiveness. I've always started this down left of the bolts- but around the corner sounds like a prime idea. Used to be gear for anchors... probably still is...? |
By Sir Camsalot From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut Mar 20, 2008
| New (last year??) anchors have been placed up top. |
By tenesmus Mar 20, 2008
| The tree belay for Squeeze My Lemon had grown into that block and loosened the last foot making the belay unsafe. So you can still belay with gear or you can continue on to the summit of the block and lower with a 70m rope. |
By Stevie Nacho From: Utah Apr 13, 2008
| Really fun route. Gear is not critical between the bolts, however a larger cam and long sling is nice at the top near the chain. The climbing is delicate, yet highly featured compared to other slab routes in the canyon. Right on for whoever put the chain anchor at the top of these route! |
By Sunny-D From: SLC, Utah May 1, 2008
| The Chain Anchor was added last fall (2007) by Tenesmus and Sunny-D. There are now several other routes in the area as well- All really fun "well" protected. pm me if you want information. I need to finish a couple of things up there before I post the routes |
By Michael Buchanan Apr 26, 2010 rating: 5.10-
| I thought, at the bottom, that this was going to be a crimpy sport climb. Boy was I wrong. Cool slab moves at the top! Wahooooo! |
By Alex Quitiquit From: Salt Lake City May 13, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Awesome slab. A little sporty in the movement at the crux but fantastic. Not really PG13, you make the crux move with good pro. The top's a bit runout, but it's easy climbing. |
By Erik R Johnson From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 14, 2013
| I just have to add my 2 cents...if you are planning to climb to the same anchors as "Squeeze my Lemon" and "Zesty," then you should bring gear for the upper cracks. Otherwise it is a serious runout (though as other posters have mentioned, the climbing up higher is easier). |
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