Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lizard Head Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Day At The Office T 
Blue Collar Crack T 
Cashmere Crack T 
Delicacy T 
Drama 
Errant Edge T 
King Lizard T 
Manager's Special T 
Maverick Line T,TR 
Part Time Crack T 
Red Neck Slab T 
Squeeze My Lemon T 
Unknown Slab T 
Unknown Slab/Crack T 
Wings of Perception T 
Zesty T 
Zigzag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Errant Edge 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ruckman Bros.
Page Views: 2,020
Submitted By: Sir Camsalot on Mar 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Durf on the Errant Edge

Courtesy of Troy Anderson...

Description 

Follows three bolts up chicken heads and small crystals on the right side of the Lizard Head wall. Spicy.

Location 

Right of Squeeze My Lemon on the Lizard Head Wall.

Protection 

Some pro available between the three bolts.


Photos of Errant Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Between the first and second bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Between the first and second bolt.
Follows three bolts up the right side with some pro avaliable down low before it eases up.
Follows three bolts up the right side with some pr...
Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top of Errant Edge.
BETA PHOTO: Cary Siteman climbing in the crack toward the top ...
The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
The Boogie before the Errant Edge.
Stringing along on knob central.
Stringing along on knob central.
Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Errant Edge
BETA PHOTO: Cary Siteman stepping out above the 3rd bolt on Er...
At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
BETA PHOTO: At the Crack to the right and below the first bolt
At the final bolt.
At the final bolt.

Comments on Errant Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 14, 2013
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 19, 2008

I only Tr'd this but will be back soon for the lead. A fall getting to the second bolt would put you in the trees.
By tenesmus
Mar 19, 2008

no it won't. Its fine and the climbing right there is nicely featured. This actually starts around the corner in the crack for a move or two before pulling onto the lip. Starting directly under the bolts onto that slab ramp feels kinda like .11a. There is a small cam placement for the juggy (honestly!) runnout to the anchors.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 19, 2008

ah...I thought it started at that right trending ramp just right of Squeeze My Lemon. Fun shizz either way.
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Mar 20, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Wow, one of my favorite slabbin' craggin' leads in LCC. The short rightward trend above bolt 2 (or 3?) sports some wickedness and the final crack provides some welcome forgiveness. I've always started this down left of the bolts- but around the corner sounds like a prime idea. Used to be gear for anchors... probably still is...?
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Mar 20, 2008

New (last year??) anchors have been placed up top.
By tenesmus
Mar 20, 2008

The tree belay for Squeeze My Lemon had grown into that block and loosened the last foot making the belay unsafe. So you can still belay with gear or you can continue on to the summit of the block and lower with a 70m rope.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Apr 13, 2008

Really fun route. Gear is not critical between the bolts, however a larger cam and long sling is nice at the top near the chain. The climbing is delicate, yet highly featured compared to other slab routes in the canyon. Right on for whoever put the chain anchor at the top of these route!
By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
May 1, 2008

The Chain Anchor was added last fall (2007) by Tenesmus and Sunny-D. There are now several other routes in the area as well- All really fun "well" protected. pm me if you want information. I need to finish a couple of things up there before I post the routes
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought, at the bottom, that this was going to be a crimpy sport climb. Boy was I wrong. Cool slab moves at the top! Wahooooo!
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome slab. A little sporty in the movement at the crux but fantastic. Not really PG13, you make the crux move with good pro. The top's a bit runout, but it's easy climbing.
By Erik R Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 14, 2013

I just have to add my 2 cents...if you are planning to climb to the same anchors as "Squeeze my Lemon" and "Zesty," then you should bring gear for the upper cracks. Otherwise it is a serious runout (though as other posters have mentioned, the climbing up higher is easier).