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Erotica 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 757
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010
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Description 

This excellent, over-looked line climbs just as good as it looks, and lacks the tiresome slab cruxes of many Endless Wall 5.12s.

Scramble up the start of Doce Doe to a reach a big ledge and an airy traverse left to the high first bolt. Follow incut jugs up the orange wall to a good stance below a pair of vertical edges. Balance your way over this section to more good holds and easy slabbin to the roof. Get Gunky, crank over the thrilling ceiling, and try to hang on to the anchor.


Location 

The next bolted line right of Aesthetica, climbing a beautiful orange & blue speckled face to a looming roof.


Protection 

~8 bolts to 2 BA. Optional ~1" gear for ramp start.



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By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I agree with mono, this is a very good but overlooked route. The lack of any small holds makes this one of the few endless wall 12s that will still be fun in the summer heat.