Erotic City 5.11b
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Paul, John Mallery & Mike Fogarty, December 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Will S on May 30, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Erotic City".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description The route starts as a relatively easy handcrack that ends after about 30'. At this point move right and continue in the thinner crack above through a steeper section to a ledgy topout.
The crux is the move to the right when the initial crack ends. It's a reachy and awkward face sequence, and is much harder than the rest of the route, which detracts a bit from the climb IMO. That said, it's still a worthy route.
Rap from either of the bolted anchors described in the comment below or walk off/downclimb either left or right. Having done the walkoff right, I recommend rapping.
Protection Pro to 2.5".
By Murf
Nov 19, 2008
| I think I always walked off to the climbers left, fairly short. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 19, 2008
| There are two easy descent options available - traverse right from the top where you'll find a bolted anchor on the large boulder (visible in photo) sitting atop the "Leg Lifter" route or use the rap anchors on "Hot Lips", the route which takes the sun/shadow line to the right of Erotic City. |
By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11c PG13
| This climb is 5.11c ***
I Would like to know why this climb is now 5.11B **
I would love to see a 5.12 climber lead this onsight no falls first try! |
By Murf
Mar 5, 2012
| Mike - If you add the route to the site, you get to rate and star it. That being said, I believe Erotic City has been .11b in the Vogel guidebook since at least '92. MP.com also runs on a 4 star system so if you think 3 of 5 stars, that seems to correspond to 2 of 4 here.
Not quite sure what the last bit means, but I'm no 5.12 climber and I did onsite this route. Its kinda height dependent IMO and I'm 6' tall. |
By RTM
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b
| This was my first 5.11 crack lead/send. Its been 20years or so, but I recall it to be quite doable - easy climbing and easy pro, straight into a short crux, then the top. |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 5, 2012
| Might only be 10d if you are fit and have good shoes. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 28, 2012
| Got tunnel vision for the wrong sequence and it felt 5.12 in my bad shoes. Then I stopped being an idiot, figured it out, lowered, remembered I was fit, put on my good shoes... .10d.
Chris... what is the story on Hot Lips? I threw the rope down and gave it a go, pretty fun! Eventually got it all except the roof pull. |
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