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Routes in Lost Ledge
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Carpet Slabber T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cover Girl T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Erosion Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Found Arch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four Holes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gawking At the Broad Squad S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Girls Prefer Batteries T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Groov'in T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hallie Haley S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hole Traverse, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Little Dab Will Do Ya S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Lost Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Numb Nuts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Nutt’n But Clean Laundry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rattle Can S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rhumb Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Twirpie Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Weak Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Joe Cote, Roger Martin 1973 |
| Page Views: | 883 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
APPROACH - Three approaches: 1) [ Best ] Take the sloping ledge that starts at the huge oak tree at the base of Groov’n ( same ledge as alternate start to Washboard). At its very end step down and move 5-6 feet left to reach the incipient crack about 20 feet above the “ toe”. Avoids the first 20 ft of seldom-climbed and dirty slab.
2) From the base area (base of Groov'n and the "Arches") Slither, crash and bushwhack down and around the toe to the base of the climb as the FA-ers did! ( and your submitter the first time he climbed it !)
3) Climb "Groov'n (or any other climb that leads to the Groov'n anchors) and then traverse to the Erosion Groove anchors [see photo posted to Twirpy Girl]. Rap to the base.
START: At the bottom of toe of the slab, about 25 ft left, and 25 ft below the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. Bring a wire brush for the first 20-25 feet, or use the alternate start on the sloping ledge.
Climb up the thin seam (very little protection in the first section; what there is will be nuts not cams) until it becomes a crack/groove. About 150 ft up the crack/groove ends at an inside corner. (Before getting here one can do a rising traverse to the Groov'n/Washboard anchor; to this point the climb is about 5.5 +/-) Climb over the corner (5.6 -5.7 PG/R) to a clump of trees. Do a 2 rope rap or...
Pitch 2 - Continue to trees above. (Easy)
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